Official 2003.5-2008 340 Sundancer Thread

Found it. :D Pull the switch out, you will see two wires running off of the switched side. One runs to the fixed lights and one runs to the reading lights. Take the wire for the reading lights from the switched side and wire it to the hot side. I am going to try it this evening.
 
Found it. :D Pull the switch out, you will see two wires running off of the switched side. One runs to the fixed lights and one runs to the reading lights. Take the wire for the reading lights from the switched side and wire it to the hot side. I am going to try it this evening.
This will be HUGE! Thank you for searching and posting. I can't claim to be even a novice electrician ... are you taking about the light switch under the AC panel? All I have to do it pull it out and switch one wire? Can it be that easy? :) Thanks again!
 
Found it. :D Pull the switch out, you will see two wires running off of the switched side. One runs to the fixed lights and one runs to the reading lights. Take the wire for the reading lights from the switched side and wire it to the hot side. I am going to try it this evening.

It looks like according to the factory schematics the reading lights were supposed to be bridged into the positive feed at the switch. Yep, another project for tonight.
vberth lights.jpg
-Kevin
 
So reading the above these should have always have power when the cabin lights are on. 604-14 BLU/RED is the positive side coming in from the harness. 660A-14 BLK and 660B-14 BLK both run out to the ground block. If that's it then hopefully it will be changed tonight.

-Kevin
 
Ok, here is what i found. The blue/red feeds the center and the two blue runs are bridged and feed the lights. So to to give dedicated power I will have to split the two and bridge to power.
IMG_20190731_204443247.jpg
-Kevin
 
So, given some thought I think the best approach may be to replace this with a DPDT switch. Then I can wire both to the top and the forward only to the bottom and still control them all from the switch. Reasoning is that i don't want to have to climb over the bed if i leave the reading lights on and want to turn them off.

-Kevin
 
Has anyone added air conditioning to the helm/cockpit area?

With this heat we’ve been having I’d like to cool off the helm

On the ac control panel it looks like it may have been an option

My questions are

Where would you mount?
If this was a factory option are there wire runs already there?
Can I tap into existing cabin ac water pump and through hills or do I need new ones?

I’m thinking to mount it either under the port passenger helm seat or (I have the sportsman) under the bait prep sink.
 
How do you remove the speaker grill from the helm speaker? One of my speakers isn’t working and I’d like to remove it to see what’s goin on

Do the grills snap off? Do you rotate them? Trying not to break them
 
How do you remove the speaker grill from the helm speaker? One of my speakers isn’t working and I’d like to remove it to see what’s goin on

Do the grills snap off? Do you rotate them? Trying not to break them

Dependent on the speaker. My factory speakers twisted off. If it is the one at the helm by the cup holder you can also pull the entire pocket out to check the back of the speakers - might be easier to work on.

-Kevin
 
thanks yes it is the one by the helm seat with the cup holder, I saw that I could remove the whole panel but didn't want to disturb the caulking unless if had to.

these are the factory speakers so I'll try to swist them off.

my plan is to try swapping another speaker into that location to see if the problem is the speaker or something else.
 
has anyone bought new carpets from snapin carpet company that advertises here?

We're looking at the Better Than Teak II #5 (Marine Weave) which is the teak with white stripes"Teak & holly sole" looking pattern.

is it any good? priced at $1300.

looks like I have install the snaps. was it difficult? any recommendations are appreciated.

how long did it take to arrive...they are telling me it takes 5 weeks

thanks
 
Depth finder is reading blank or two "dashes" so it has power. Any idea where to start? I am on an inland lake. Will lake crud cause the transducer to not read? Going to try brushing off the transducer for starters. Also, will be pulling the boat to change props in the next two weeks if that is an opportunity to inspect for issues. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Update, pulled the boat to have props changed. Transducer looks clean and not painted over(Bottom Paint). Fuse looks good as well. Any suggestions where to go next?
 
Thanks Jon, I reached out to them as well as other sources. Will let everyone know what I find.
New props are on. Vibration 100% gone. Had my mover pull, switch props, and relaunch. Very smooth process. I will say if he didn't have a hydraulic puller it would have been impossible to get the props off. When they popped it sounded like a 22. Bought the new ones from Linden prop in IA. Excellent service. Received quite an education on props from them. Will be using them to have the old set reworked. Below is a link to the same props I purchased from an online seller.

https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.generalpropeller.com/4N18211.500RAZ85__;!uO4nKZm9OHkM!4O8odcvyWISSG735ao2VWKw_T-inKzJRFjxai3DIIYAilvX-1U9woiNTV4G3QWp5NzkUQ343Rg$
 

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Generator started up Sunday morning, ran for about 30-45 sec then died. Pulled plug and found it bone dry. Pulled air cleaner and tried spraying cab cleaner directly into it. Ran for few sec but then died so I know I am getting spark. Pulled plug again finding it dry. Didn't have any starter fluid on the lake. We have been bad and not ran the Generator for over a month. From what I have read it most likely lost prime but will run on whats in the bowl for over a minute without load. PO sternly said "run it every time you are on the boat". Any tips on re-priming the fuel system? I read there is a bleeder valve on top of the motor to get air out of the fuel system so will start there this weekend. Also will try to have new fuel filter. Thanks in advance for any guidance.
 

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Just went through same thing in mine.

Took forever to troubleshoot ended up replacing fuel pump but not sure if that did it.

I think the final trick was to put the antisyphon valve on top of the fuel tank into bypass mode
 
Hey guys ..looking to purchase a new dinghy. Right now my setup is as follows: Sea Wise hydraulic davit lift (600lb lift capacity ..overkill I know) Aquapro 9ft aluminum hull RIB with Honda 8hp. I’m looking to get a Zodiac 330 (11ft aluminum hull) with a Yamaha 20hp and console with steering wheel and all that. Old dinghy setup weighs about 230lbs .new one would be tipping the scales at 385 with fuel and gear. I currently don’t notice any real change or strain with my boat with or without the dinghy ..the 8.1’s are incredible engines to have on our boat, but can the swim platform handle this weight? Anyone have a similar setup or think this would put a strain getting on plane?
 

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