260 Sundancer Thread.........Comments questions and answers

I was able to measure the height of the windshield of a 2007 Sea Ray 260 Sundancer on a Venture VBT-8600 trailer. The total height from the ground to the top of the windshield on this trailer was 10 feet, 0 inches.
 
If memory serves, your genny sits on a shelf above the aft portion of the gas tank and the fuel fill/sender is located towards the aft end of the tank? Unfortunately, you may have to move the genny to get to it... which of course may also require moving something on the port or stbd side of the bilge - that way you can possibly just slide the genny to the side with a little ingenuity. If you have an overhead lift (or build one using the top of the gunwales for support) you can bring the genny back and up... I 'think' there is enough clearance in front of engine.

I don't remember how much clearance there is between shelf and the tank, but if there's enough, you may be able to at least test the sender as you could do that by feel.

I realize such a simple thing as replacing a sender requires a lot of work, but that's kinda the name of the game with boats - especially small boats with lot's of equipment. "Something" has to be buried... ;) On the plus side, as the amount of bilge space goes, your boat is actually pretty good! Many are much worse.

Check your owners manual and the parts manual. They will show the location of the sender. In my 270 AJ the sender was in the front of the tank in the storage hatch - where the aft berth is in the 260 DA. Try looking there before you go removing the granny.
 
Check your owners manual and the parts manual. They will show the location of the sender. In my 270 AJ the sender was in the front of the tank in the storage hatch - where the aft berth is in the 260 DA. Try looking there before you go removing the granny.
Good point. In his post, he used the term "in the rear aft", and I took that to mean the mid cabin ('rear' of the cabin)... and that he already checked there. But if he DIDN'T check there... the sender could very well be far enough forward to be able to be accessed through a deck plate in the mid-cabin floor. Actually, if someone just asked me where it was, I would have said through the mid-berth, like you were mentioning - guess I got thrown by the phrasing... or maybe my reading skills...

Oh... yeah, those granny's can be quite ornery sometimes - best not to mess with 'em. :)
 
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Check your owners manual and the parts manual. They will show the location of the sender. In my 270 AJ the sender was in the front of the tank in the storage hatch - where the aft berth is in the 260 DA. Try looking there before you go removing the granny.

Thank-you all for the replies. I have checked the owners and parts manual. It shows where the sending unit is located on the tank - cut out drawings, but it doesn't show how or where to access it. Being new to this I did state that I located it in the "rear aft" meaning in the cabin rear bed is that the mid berth? Like mentioned, I was able to lift up the 'boards' and with a flashlight and I was able to see it, but seems like there still isn't enough room to test or to lift up and out to replace. It seems to be still on the other side of the rear wall. Before I start taking out the boards in the rear - it's has caulking around the boards - I would like to talk to someone who has actually replaced the sending unit on a 260 with a generator close to my year to know how they did it...oh, what and where is the granny....? :) Again, I appreciate you all - thank-you ...
 
If you want to verify whether or not you can reach it from the midcabin, you can lift the board in the midcabin enough to get a stick or a tape measure in there. That should tell you exactly where it is. You could also sneak a tape measure or stick in from the bilge - which might be easier to do.

I looked at your parts diagram for the tank - you're right - it's towards the rear of the tank. I'm just guessing based on the diagram, but I'd say it's roughly 2' from the rear of the tank? Does that seem about right?

There's no magic here - if you measure and find that the only access to it is from the bilge, then you know what you have to do.
 
Good day. I just purchased a 2005 DA and need to test / replace the fuel sending unit. I've looked on the forum, but can't find anyone replacing one specific to this year and model with a generator. I was able to look in the rear aft, but seems like there still not enough room to test or to lift up and out to replace. Has anyone here replace one? If so, I would appreciate letting me know your experience. Thank-you,
Before you replace it... Have you run through the Smartcraft calibration? It might not be "broken".

Pro tip: Even when it works correctly, it's more of a "fuel guesser" than a fuel gauge. Mine will read 1/4 tank when sitting still and 1/2 tank when on plane. Don't rely on it. You might be cruising along and see 1/4 on the gauge when you don't really have it in the tank.
 
I have a 2006 260DA with a 6.2 and bravo 3. Some shallow areas at low tide in the st. Lucie inlet. Even though trying to be careful, I did it, buried the outdrive in mud/sand/shell. I'm hoping I dodged a bullet but not sure. It overheated. I was 10 minutes from dock so watched temp not get over 185 or so pretty much idling back to dock with alarm sounding. There was some hot smell and twice I heard slight slurp like trying to circulate water. All raw water cooling. I know, should have shut down so go ahead give me hell, but when back to dock temp was good and no alarm. Flushed it back at home (on trailer), and temp 168. All seemed okay although now I'm forcing water at house and not letting it draw on it's own. My question, what to take apart and check? Thermostat? I dont know of a strainer. Seems like there would be. Maybe debris cleared out and no damage? It has a brand new impeller. Any thoughts would be a help thanks. Will
 
I have a 2006 260DA with a 6.2 and bravo 3. Some shallow areas at low tide in the st. Lucie inlet. Even though trying to be careful, I did it, buried the outdrive in mud/sand/shell. I'm hoping I dodged a bullet but not sure. It overheated. I was 10 minutes from dock so watched temp not get over 185 or so pretty much idling back to dock with alarm sounding. There was some hot smell and twice I heard slight slurp like trying to circulate water. All raw water cooling. I know, should have shut down so go ahead give me hell, but when back to dock temp was good and no alarm. Flushed it back at home (on trailer), and temp 168. All seemed okay although now I'm forcing water at house and not letting it draw on it's own. My question, what to take apart and check? Thermostat? I dont know of a strainer. Seems like there would be. Maybe debris cleared out and no damage? It has a brand new impeller. Any thoughts would be a help thanks. Will
It happens - sounds like you'll be OK in the end with no major damage. If you weren't in muck for long, there's probably no reason to pull the block drains and flush it out. But it's not that hard to do, either. Most likely, you may have just scored the impeller housing or vanes. Keep an eye on your temps and if you then start to run a little higher, then go ahead and address it then. If you want to be proactive, then go ahead and check the impeller out. Highly unlikely you did anything to the circ pump.

No, if you have the stock system, there is no "real" strainer. Those holes in your outdrive are your strainer. You could install a thru-hull/seacock/strainer, if you want... it's a better setup all together, as well.

It's unlikely that running on the hose is giving you better results than what you'd get in the water - you get much better (amount) flow in the water than on the hose.
 
It happens - sounds like you'll be OK in the end with no major damage. If you weren't in muck for long, there's probably no reason to pull the block drains and flush it out. But it's not that hard to do, either. Most likely, you may have just scored the impeller housing or vanes. Keep an eye on your temps and if you then start to run a little higher, then go ahead and address it then. If you want to be proactive, then go ahead and check the impeller out. Highly unlikely you did anything to the circ pump.

No, if you have the stock system, there is no "real" strainer. Those holes in your outdrive are your strainer. You could install a thru-hull/seacock/strainer, if you want... it's a better setup all together, as well.

It's unlikely that running on the hose is giving you better results than what you'd get in the water - you get much better (amount) flow in the water than on the hose.

I was told by a marine max mechanic that the boat has aftermarket risers and that they are prone to pitting and leaking, possibly destroying the engine. That's now a worry too. The boat is so heavy I hardly felt it bury the outdrive. The props are not a scratch but the nice black paint is really scratched off the lower half of the outdrive.
Btw, the smartcraft LED on the speedo was burnt and unreadable, so I sent it to guagesavor.com , got it back in 2 weeks with new LED and cover. Now I can actually read it. But to see "check engine" and "overheating" was not a pleasant sight. Thanks much for your help. Will
 
Good day - Does anyone know where I can get this exact anchor mount for 2005? I've looked for several days, with no luck. SeaLux makes one similar but it's for a 65ft Yacht …maybe one day...lol.. Thanks again,

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2006 260DA Sundancer 6.2
No power to Engine lift hatch.
Anyone know where exactly to look for the problem? Fuse good, toggle switch has power and works fine, but getting no power to the motor that lifts the hatch. Thanks for any help, Will
 
2006 260DA Sundancer 6.2
No power to Engine lift hatch.
Anyone know where exactly to look for the problem? Fuse good, toggle switch has power and works fine, but getting no power to the motor that lifts the hatch. Thanks for any help, Will
Do you have the transom door fully open?
 
Yes door open. It will operate with transom door closed but you would break it in a bind when you lifted the hatch. There is no lock out switch.
The lift was kind of intermittent then quit altogether. I had to go through the under seat access and disconnect the rod, and manually mussel it open and prop it up.
Since the switch has power, but it's not getting to the motor, I was wondering if anyone knows where to trace the problem. The wiring diagram shows a relay or something between the switch and motor, but I dont know where that is located and the manuals dont help. Thanks. Will
 
Good day - Does anyone know where I can get this exact anchor mount for 2005? I've looked for several days, with no luck. SeaLux makes one similar but it's for a 65ft Yacht …maybe one day...lol.. Thanks again,

View attachment 73860

My 260DA did not come with a anchor roller. My dock mate did have a factory installed anchor roller. I looked for the manufactures sticker on his anchor roller and called that company. They were able to make me one for around $300. This was 9 years ago so I do not remember the manufacturer or if they would still have the templates in stock.

Your 05' 260DA is the newer generation than my 99' but the roller looks the same.
 
Yes door open. It will operate with transom door closed but you would break it in a bind when you lifted the hatch. There is no lock out switch.
The lift was kind of intermittent then quit altogether. I had to go through the under seat access and disconnect the rod, and manually mussel it open and prop it up.
Since the switch has power, but it's not getting to the motor, I was wondering if anyone knows where to trace the problem. The wiring diagram shows a relay or something between the switch and motor, but I dont know where that is located and the manuals dont help. Thanks. Will
There is, indeed, a lock-out switch (or, there "should" be). It's magnetic and mounted behind the fiberglass where the door opens. It sounds like yours may be malfunctioning. Whether that's the whole problem, or not, I'm not sure. If memory serves, once you're in the bilge, look for two small wires coming down from the door area. I think (again, going off memory here), you can disconnect the plug and short them together to bypass the lock-out switch.

EDIT: Just to be clear, you can definitely short/bypass the switch - it's just a simple on/off switch. I "think" there are quick disconnects in the wires that come from the mag switch that you can easily disconnect to bypass.

Now, maybe this is what a previous owner had done and their "bypass" is corroded or starting to fail.

I thought there was a large fuse (25/30 amp?) under the dash for the hatch motor? Or maybe that's where the relay is? Take a look there for starters.
 
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There is, indeed, a lock-out switch (or, there "should" be). It's magnetic and mounted behind the fiberglass where the door opens. It sounds like yours may be malfunctioning. Whether that's the whole problem, or not, I'm not sure. If memory serves, once you're in the bilge, look for two small wires coming down from the door area. I think (again, going off memory here), you can disconnect the plug and short them together to bypass the lock-out switch.

Now, maybe this is what a previous owner had done and their "bypass" is corroded or starting to fail.

I thought there was a large fuse (25/30 amp?) under the dash for the hatch motor? Or maybe that's where the relay is? Take a look there for starters.

My '06 260DA had the magnetic switch mounted behind the fiberglass wall behind the door when it is open. The hatch would not open unless the door was open. As Dennis states, you can short the two wires off of it together and it will by pass the switch.

Bennett
 
Thanks I had no idea about the lock out. One time I was lifting the hatch with the toggle, and after a few inches I saw the door was closed. I thought wow I better watch that, it would cause damage. So the previous owner must have disabled the lockout. When I am back home I will check it out. Thanks again, Will
 
Hello everybody, for a few days I am trying to find a left side windshield for my 2006 260 DA, no effect. Windshields are branded by Taylor Made, but they don't have it or can "produce" one for me for ONLY 2450$ :/. Sent message to dealer and most of sea ray parts shops on internet waiting for response, but I am afraid it won't end succesful. Do You have any idea or maybe saw something somewhere to help me in this case? :)
 
There is, indeed, a lock-out switch (or, there "should" be). It's magnetic and mounted behind the fiberglass where the door opens. It sounds like yours may be malfunctioning. Whether that's the whole problem, or not, I'm not sure. If memory serves, once you're in the bilge, look for two small wires coming down from the door area. I think (again, going off memory here), you can disconnect the plug and short them together to bypass the lock-out switch.

EDIT: Just to be clear, you can definitely short/bypass the switch - it's just a simple on/off switch. I "think" there are quick disconnects in the wires that come from the mag switch that you can easily disconnect to bypass.

Now, maybe this is what a previous owner had done and their "bypass" is corroded or starting to fail.

I thought there was a large fuse (25/30 amp?) under the dash for the hatch motor? Or maybe that's where the relay is? Take a look there for starters.

That was it, one of the two wires came apart from a connector going to that lock out switch. Works fine now. Thanks for pointing that out about that door lock out. Will
 

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