Official 400EC thread

ran out of room between flanges.....modifying a socket to fit between...stay tuned...
 
She is home!
She ran well. The engines felt strong. Able to cruise at 21-22mph at 3300-3400 rpm.
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Now I just need my bulkhead finished!
 
Velvet Drive output oil seal replacement.
modified a 1/2 inch drive, impact socket. Should work fine. Monday it should happen. Will post photos....Jon
 
I was able to identify the source of my transmission leak and I'm looking for some help on how to fix it. The ATF is coming from the removable strainer shown below.. I'm aware that it's a common problem for this to not be completely seated, but in this case it seemed to be tight and well seated but was leaking profusely. I also noticed that the removable basket/strainer on the leaking side was different the the non leaking side. The leaking strainer looks to be all SS while the non leaking strainer seems to be some type of coated metal. Is this a simple o-ring replacement or complete strainer replacement or is there more to it?
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The caps are wonky when you install them. Essentially you need to keep the cap square to the hole while you tighten the screw down.
 
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Ok.....separated the output flange from the prop shaft flange....put socket on the output shaft flange, prepared to deal with 200 foot-pounds...it took about 10. Not good. Pulled Nylocs nut off shaft and the flange slipped off..with a bunch of trans fluid....catch pan in place. Back of flange was burred up. Cleaned up area and going to pull seal and reinstall in the am. No wonder I had a leak.
 

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I was able to identify the source of my transmission leak and I'm looking for some help on how to fix it. The ATF is coming from the removable strainer shown below.. I'm aware that it's a common problem for this to not be completely seated, but in this case it seemed to be tight and well seated but was leaking profusely. I also noticed that the removable basket/strainer on the leaking side was different the the non leaking side. The leaking strainer looks to be all SS while the non leaking strainer seems to be some type of coated metal. Is this a simple o-ring replacement or complete strainer replacement or is there more to it?View attachment 72445
You may have the wrong filter installed in the tranny, or it was just not installed properly. I changed the filter on both of mine when I did the repower. There are two o-rings, one small one that fits the inner lip of the filter and a large one that seals the cap to the tranny. It is very easy to misaligne the cap as it is a pressure fit and squeezes the o-ring to seal it. You need to apply even pressure around the outside edge of the cap while tightening the t-handle.
 
You may have the wrong filter installed in the tranny, or it was just not installed properly. I changed the filter on both of mine when I did the repower. There are two o-rings, one small one that fits the inner lip of the filter and a large one that seals the cap to the tranny. It is very easy to misaligne the cap as it is a pressure fit and squeezes the o-ring to seal it. You need to apply even pressure around the outside edge of the cap while tightening the t-handle.
I definitely hope it’s that simple. I have a new filter and O-rings on order should be arriving Wednesday and I’m going to install on Saturday. Wish me luck.
 
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View attachment 72570 View attachment 72572 Ok.....separated the output flange from the prop shaft flange....put socket on the output shaft flange, prepared to deal with 200 foot-pounds...it took about 10. Not good. Pulled Nylocs nut off shaft and the flange slipped off..with a bunch of trans fluid....catch pan in place. Back of flange was burred up. Cleaned up area and going to pull seal and reinstall in the am. No wonder I had a leak.
Ok...pulled apart/ when I pulled the seal, several parts spilled out. Luckily I have a transmission service manual. Installed new seal. Tried to drain transmission, but had no luck pulling the drain plug.....installed new flange with Nylocs nut and sealer. Torqued to 230 foot pounds and connected prop shaft. Tomorrow will fill trans and install exhaust hoses and fire it up. Will take a ride and see how she works. Will report back tomorrow.
 
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Ok...pulled apart/ when I pulled the seal, several parts spilled out. Luckily I have a transmission service manual. Installed new seal. Tried to drain transmission, but had no luck pulling the drain plug.....installed new flange with Nylocs nut and sealer. Torqued to 230 foot pounds and connected prop shaft. Tomorrow will fill trans and install exhaust hoses and fire it up. Will take a ride and see how she works. Will report back tomorrow.
Great pictures Jon. Thanks for letting us follow this project.
 
Got everything together this morning...filled transmission with fresh ATF. Put the port exhaust hoses back on. Inspected the inside of the hoses and notes some evidence of slight delamination inside. Put on a to do list. The trans was allowed to warm up and shifted forward and reverse...smooth, no out of ordinary sounds...all good. No leaks. The port trans has always made a low frequency sound. Not now. Apparently someone worked on this before I bought it in 16 and didn't tighten the lock nut to factory spec, 225 FP. After making a special tool, using some bolts and nuts to press the seal in with a reversed flange, it's done. Inspected the output cone bearing, shims and spacers, it all looked good. Only wear was on the back of the flange....was worn and burred. Seal, new flange and nut installed. Took me a full day and partial morning using makeshift tools. I figure if I had the right tools, possible 3 or so hours would do it. Considering no one would give me an estimate and Marine Max refused to work on a sea Ray over 20 years old, it was up to me. Spent close to $200 on parts and my time. But hey, I have the tools I configured so if I need to tackle the starboard trans, I am ready. Have a drain plug socket I picked up today and will drain both coolers and transmissions Friday!

*Note wear on back of flange..... When the seal is removed, the internals slipped out in my hands, unexpectedly. All the parts stack together and are held in place by the tension on the flange plate provided with the locknut.
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Has anybody used an air mattress in the cabin. We are going to have a full house this weekend and I’m wondering if an air mattress will fit. If so.... how big? Full?
 
Has anybody used an air mattress in the cabin. We are going to have a full house this weekend and I’m wondering if an air mattress will fit. If so.... how big? Full?

I think an air mattress on the floor of the cabin is going to be tight, even for a twin size mattress.
If the weather permits, best bet maybe to have a couple of people sleep in the cockpit.
 
I think an air mattress on the floor of the cabin is going to be tight, even for a twin size mattress.
If the weather permits, best bet maybe to have a couple of people sleep in the cockpit.

I agree, I sleep in the cockpit year round. After installing a TV in the cockpit, I'm in heaven!

 
View attachment 72570 View attachment 72572 Ok.....separated the output flange from the prop shaft flange....put socket on the output shaft flange, prepared to deal with 200 foot-pounds...it took about 10. Not good. Pulled Nylocs nut off shaft and the flange slipped off..with a bunch of trans fluid....catch pan in place. Back of flange was burred up. Cleaned up area and going to pull seal and reinstall in the am. No wonder I had a leak.
Recommended that I change fluid in both transmissions, run them this weekend, drain and fill again......will happen today....
 

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