Does my boat look right on this trailer?

boatman37

boatman37

Well-Known Member
Jun 6, 2015
4,242
pittsburgh
Boat Info
2006 Crownline 250CR. 5.7 Merc BIII
Previous: 1986 Sea Ray 250 Sundancer. 260 Merc Alpha 1 Gen 1
Engines
5.7 Merc BIII
So I know it isn't a SR but bought this boat in August with a brand new Venture trailer. The first time we tried to launch this year we had trouble so pulled it back on the trailer as best we could and came home. Couldn't get it as far forward as it should have been but knew it was going right back in and I tied it down with every strap I had. The boat was about 4" back from where it should have been. When I got home I unhooked it and had the trailer sitting level. Noticed the bow bounce upwards every time my step-son was near the back of the boat. I grabbed the coupler and could actually pick the front of the trailer up by hand. We ended up jacking the boat up and cranking it forward the 4" before I towed it again. But after looking at pictures it does seem like there is alot of weight towards the back of my trailer. I don't have any scales near me to weigh it but have seen pics online of the same model boat on a Venture tandem axle trailer and it is about 12" further forward than mine. Not sure if it is the same model trailer but it was a 2016 same as mine.

Anyway, my bow stop can't go forward unless I move it about 10" in front of the V on my trailer. That would be fine as there is alot of trailer sticking out of the front of the boat. I would have to move my bunks forward about the same distance as my boat has a slight wedge down at the back so I don't think the bunks should stick out past my transom?

The trailer tows fine both with my old 1500 and my new 2500. I am going to try to figure out a way to get an accurate tongue weight but the only way I can make an adjustment is with the boat off the trailer so was figuring I'd at least get it better for now then hopefully get an accurate weight when I pull the boat out this fall.

Thoughts on these pics?



 
At first look the trailer appears to be too short for the boat. You may need to take the boat and trailer to a large boat dealer that has a lift and they can pick the boat up and place it properly on the trailer....if it will fit. As far as moving the winch post forward 10", you appear to have more boat than that hanging over the back end of the trailer. My winch post sits forward of the "V" on my trailer.

Your tongue should be 10% of the total weight of the boat and trailer. If you can lift it, it's set up wrong. I'm guessing you are somewhere around 7-8,000 lbs. towed weight. You need to get that corrected before you tow too far. If that starts to fishtail on you, you could lose you boat, truck....and your life.
Shawn
 
Move the winch post forward. You need more weight over the axles and forward on the tongue. As long as the trailer is rated for the weight of the boat, and it appears it is, should work out well. Try and get it as far forward as you can to even up the stern with the end of the trailer. It will pull much better also.
 
My Venture trailer looks to be identical to yours and I haul a 225 Sea Ray Weekender. You may move the winch stand in front of the V where the sides join together but I would check with Venture first to see if this is recommended. You really need to get the boat forward and get at least 10% tongue weight as recommended by another person. My bunks are even with the back of the transom. I pull the boat tightly against the winch stop and tie down the bow with a turn buckle like yours. I think the defining part of this issue is the capacity of the trailer. You should have a sticker on the frame giving you the capacity. Mine is model VATB 5925 with a GVWR rating of 6925 lbs. Also the tires are a big worry!! Nearly all ST tires are made in China and not worth a crap !!!! Get yourself a set of Goodyear Endurance made in America. I had a blow out last week on two year old China Bombs and now have the Endurance on the trailer! I don't know what your boat weighs but mine is about 4800lbs. Before trying to make this boat fit the trailer you need to be sure the capacity of the trailer can handle the weight.
 
Thanks. I checked on the trailer when I first bought the boat. The trailer weight is 1300lbs. The GVWR is 8525lbs. My boat dry weight is about 6700lbs. I'm figuring loaded I'm around 8500-9000lbs give or take. According to Venture this is the correct trailer for my boat but I know if it is it is just barely enough. The trailer VIN starts with 47GAC272. The boat is a 2006 Crownline 250CR. FWIW the trailer was bought by the previous owner right before they put it up for sale. I probably would have went with a tri-axle or at least a beefier tandem.

My thoughts were to either move the axles back or move the winch post forward and given I have so much of the trailer sticking out past the front of the boat moving the winch post forward makes more sense. I could even move it more than 10" if needed but 10" is about the minimum I can move it since the V on the trailer meets right there. I saw a pic of the same boat on a 2016 Venture trailer that looks to be identical to ours and it was about 12" further forward than ours. A guy at our marina has the same exact boat with a Crownline trailer and his bunks stop before the transom too. There is a little angle on the bottom at the transom so I'm not sure the bunks should extend all the way back?

The boat doesn't bounce when it's on there properly with the bow eye up against the stop but when I tried to launch the first time it wouldn't stay running and my winch gear stripped trying to crank it all the way up. I have since fixed the winch. When it was bouncing it was about 4" away from the stop. That's when I was able to lift the front of the trailer. After getting the boat up against the stop I can't even budge the front of the trailer but know it still has to be too light.

The marina they stored the boat at ordered the trailer and set it on it. When I took it for a sea trial that was the first time that trailer had been on the road. My 1500 was rated to tow 8600lbs so I bought a 2500 a couple months ago. A new trailer isn't in the budget right now, especially with our sons wedding coming up in October...lol.
 
Trailer & truck capacity may be ample based on the boat weight, however, trailer looks too short. Also keep in mind the truck(s) you choose have trailer ratings "when properly equipped".
All the mass from your engine & drive are way behind the axles. Ideally I would get them forward a good foot or two. Too much weight behind the axles can lead to some serious trailer sway. I haul mine on a Venture VAT7950 with an F150. Boat is a little lighter and the trailer is a little longer than yours. I have a Reese weight distribution set-up designed for boat trailers with long, pole style yokes. Very good balance on the highway, trailer & truck are both level.
 
If you are unable to achieve 9 - 15% tongue weight with the boat all the way forward, the trailer is too short. Having too little tongue weight can cause a tendency to sway dangerously.

Just to use round numbers, for a 10000 lb GTW (boat + trailer), the weight on the tongue should be in the 9 - 1500 pound range. If you are able to pick up the tongue by hand, your weight is way too far back.

edit: The above numbers are for typical trailers. Apparently the 'experts' agree that the tongue weight for a boat on a trailer can be as low as 7% of total weight. (not sure what is different)
 
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I will start with moving the winch post forward about 12". I will also have to move the bunks forward about that same amount. My bunks stop about 6" from my transom but that is right where the angle starts at the back of my hull. If it weren't for that angle I could probably leave the bunks where they are and they would stick out a little past the transom. Doing that should put the rear of the trailer frame just about even with the transom and still have plenty of room between my anchor and my tailgate.

Just re-checked the NADA site and it says net weight for my boat is 6600lbs so that and the trailer puts me at 7900lbs
 
boatman37 said:
I will start with moving the winch post forward about 12". I will also have to move the bunks forward about that same amount. My bunks stop about 6" from my transom but that is right where the angle starts at the back of my hull. If it weren't for that angle I could probably leave the bunks where they are and they would stick out a little past the transom. Doing that should put the rear of the trailer frame just about even with the transom and still have plenty of room between my anchor and my tailgate.

Just re-checked the NADA site and it says net weight for my boat is 6600lbs so that and the trailer puts me at 7900lbs
Click to expand...

Sounds like a good plan, but make sure you add to that 6600, the weight of fuel, water, gear, etc. when doing your calculations. Assuming 100 gallon fuel load, for example, that would add another 600 pounds.
 
You definitely want to get more tongue weight - that you already know. By the way, boat trailer manufacturers typically recommend 5%-7% - at least that's what all of the higher end manufacturer's I've ever talked to about this say. When we setup a trailer, we look for that number as well... all has been good doing it that way for quite a few decades, now! If you can get to that, you're good. You can use a bathroom scale, some scrap wood and some basic math. If you google for that, you'll find some info on that.

Generally speaking, having bunks stick out past the hull is not recommended if you have trim tabs. Without trim tabs, it makes no difference. As long as the bunks are long enough to still support the hull enough.

You can also move the axles - that's a somewhat common thing to have to do.
 
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you've done all the researching and looks like you can make this trailer work. Trailers are very limber with no boat attached. If you snug the bow tightly against the bow stop roller and put the turn buckle on you are good to go. The boat sitting on the trailer is what makes the trailer rigid........providing it is snug against the bow stop roll.
 
boatman, one thing comes to mind that I didn't see mentioned above.

The bunks should extend all the way to the transom. If you stop them short of the transom you can get a hook in the hull from the unsupported weight.

GFC
 
Gofirstclass said:
boatman, one thing comes to mind that I didn't see mentioned above.

The bunks should extend all the way to the transom. If you stop them short of the transom you can get a hook in the hull from the unsupported weight.

GFC
Click to expand...
Mine has a 'hook' built in...lol. Theres another one at our marina identical that has a Crownline trailer and his bunks don't come all the way back either. There is a very slight change in the angle at the rear about 6" from the transom.
 
Pesonally, I would quit screwing around and get this whole rig to someone that knows what they’re doing. If you get this wrong you have the potential to screw up your boat, truck and your life.

I love this forum and everybody means well but sometimes you need a pro to physically take over....this is one of those times.
Shawn
 
Easiest thing to try is move winch post forward AFTER you check out trailer capacity
 
Also the transom needs full support from the bunks if not correct you can create waves in the bottom of your boat, its deff to far back on that trailer
 
boatman37 said:
Thanks. I checked on the trailer when I first bought the boat. The trailer weight is 1300lbs. The GVWR is 8525lbs. My boat dry weight is about 6700lbs. I'm figuring loaded I'm around 8500-9000lbs give or take. According to Venture this is the correct trailer for my boat but I know if it is it is just barely enough. The trailer VIN starts with 47GAC272. The boat is a 2006 Crownline 250CR. FWIW the trailer was bought by the previous owner right before they put it up for sale. I probably would have went with a tri-axle or at least a beefier tandem.

My thoughts were to either move the axles back or move the winch post forward and given I have so much of the trailer sticking out past the front of the boat moving the winch post forward makes more sense. I could even move it more than 10" if needed but 10" is about the minimum I can move it since the V on the trailer meets right there. I saw a pic of the same boat on a 2016 Venture trailer that looks to be identical to ours and it was about 12" further forward than ours. A guy at our marina has the same exact boat with a Crownline trailer and his bunks stop before the transom too. There is a little angle on the bottom at the transom so I'm not sure the bunks should extend all the way back?

The boat doesn't bounce when it's on there properly with the bow eye up against the stop but when I tried to launch the first time it wouldn't stay running and my winch gear stripped trying to crank it all the way up. I have since fixed the winch. When it was bouncing it was about 4" away from the stop. That's when I was able to lift the front of the trailer. After getting the boat up against the stop I can't even budge the front of the trailer but know it still has to be too light.

The marina they stored the boat at ordered the trailer and set it on it. When I took it for a sea trial that was the first time that trailer had been on the road. My 1500 was rated to tow 8600lbs so I bought a 2500 a couple months ago. A new trailer isn't in the budget right now, especially with our sons wedding coming up in October...lol.
Click to expand...
You don't neeed a tri axle for a 250...…. 270 280 300 yes
 
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