Official 19SPX/21SPX/SPX190/SPX210 Thread

Hi all - I want to install a transom remote and a dash remote for the stereo on my 2016 19SPX as it's a pain to have to get into the glove box to pause/unpause or adjust the volume of the music. I currently have the Sony head unit that came with the boat and it appears however that Sony no longer makes remotes for their marine radios.

I'd like to install the WetSounds WS-MC-2 head unit, but it's not a standard DIN size and would involve filling the hole the Sony unit is currently in and then cutting a new hole one the WS unit, etc.

Do any of you have suggestions on a quality DIN unit that has wired remote capabilities, or any other thoughts/solutions for that matter??
 
Isn't that unit a bluetooth unit? Can you not use your phone to control the volume and pause? If you're not already using your phone, it seems like that would be a much simpler approach - even if you just used an old phone/ipod and dedicated it to the boat. 'Course, with your current phone you could use radio stations, Pandora, etc, and not have to rely on stored music.
 
Yes I use my phone as a source, and have run a USB cable from the head unit to the dash where the phone is mounted. The problem is I use the phone for VesselView Mobile and switching back and forth is a pain. Also, when turning the boat on and off the music will start playing automatically when turning back on, etc. At the end of the day I just want to be able to hit physical on/off and volume buttons for the radio from the drivers seat.
 
I hear a lot of people also like the Fusion line of stereos - maybe they have a unit that would fit better?
 
Tapp836 said:
Ok, thanks!
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Thank you for the tips and inspiration related to adding bow speakers.

Under my passenger console, there are definitely wires out of the Sony head unit wiring harness heading towards the bow. I looked at the Sony wiring harness spec and traced them the best I could. From what I can gather, there are indeed speaker wires heading toward the bow. I attached a picture of the wires heading towards the bow. Do these seem to be the same as yours for others that have added the bow speakers?
 

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GATORB8 said:
Was a pleasant surprise. You should be able to look up in the locker under the radio and see the wiring. It uses standard aftermarket color scheme, so you should see those colors split from the harness and go forward.
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Hello again,

I ended up buying a new craftlander lift for our SPX 210. Does anyone happen to know the distance from the lowest point of the keel to where the bunks support the hull? Thanks, I’m not near the boat or I would measure myself.
 
Those that are running Vessel View Mobile, any problems with the App quitting? When mine quits, the data changes back to old data. For example, this past weekend I started with 36 gallons of fuel. Ran it down to 31 gallons at last check. App quit and when I restarted it, said I had 36 gallons again. Says I currently have 31.7 gallons left. Ran for about 5 hours that day so only burned 4 gallons....I wish! Will know total burned when I top it off Sunday.
Heading to Crystal River for the weekend.
 
Just purchased the Rockford Fosgate PMX-1R wired remote and want to install near transom on the back side of engine compartment. Has anyone successfully completed this install on a SPX boat? Or if you have one already installed, would you mind sharing photos of the placement? Obviously nervous about cutting a hole in my boat.

Thanks!
 
Bridog said:
Saw this on the FB site. Easy fix for an annoying problem with the glove box not staying open. Especially bad for those who have the radios in there. Picked this up at West Marine.
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Howdy, Bridog! Question: Did you just install the one hatch hold open or, did you install a pair (one on each side of the glove compartment hatch)?
 
GypsmJim said:
I had the same problem in my car. Then I found out that the USB plug is merely a 12 volt power port, not a charger. Once I plugged the USB cable into a cig lighter port "charger", all was well.
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Ha! What a coincidence! Wife and I took some friends out tonight and I was so proud of myself as I’d finally remembered to pickup a USB type end charger cord for our iPhones, for on the boat. Then, nothing ....

The wife, on the other hand, remembered I’d picked up a cigarette lighter charger with a USB port in its face and she fished that out of the overstuffed glove box and, Voila! — no more fretting over our phone batteries dy8ng down whilst we are cruising about!
 
For those looking for stereo remote setups, I looked at several options, and we ended up picking up a cheap BT remote from amazon (unfortunately haven't found one that is waterproof). We always use phone BT, and this thing controls play/pause, next/back, and volume up/down. The included steering wheel rubber mount fits the throttle arm and the bimini mount. Battery is going on almost two years, auto shuts off, and reconnects to your phone after hitting the volume buttons for a few seconds. We throw it in the glovebox when not in use. Hasn't gone for a swim, but at $30 not too painful to replace.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RM75NL0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
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A million thankyous to this group. I found OEM speakers on eBay for $20. I think they sound fine, they match my cockpit speakers and look great. Wires were right there as described in previous posts.
 

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Bridog said:
Saw this on the FB site. Easy fix for an annoying problem with the glove box not staying open. Especially bad for those who have the radios in there. Picked this up at West Marine.
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@Bridog , thanks AGAIN for the great tip on the spring hatch support; ours was delivered yesterday and, we’re giddy with the thought of being able to go in- and out- of the “glove” hatch while under way without trying to juggle holding it open with other items in hand! :D

I’ve never drilled or screwed into fiberglass so, I did a search for all topic titles including the terms “drilling” and “fiberglass” and found two very informative discussions (thank you ONCE AGAIN, @lazydaze! :p ) but, I still have a couple of questions, specific to mounting this support:

Question 1: What size stainless screws did you use? (No screws came with our support; and, while I have some #8 x 1-1/2” I am pretty sure i want to go with something less in diameter and I imagine shorter (?)

Question 2: What size drill bit did you use? (I have hundreds of drill bits but, I am so anxious about drilling into the Admiral’s pride and joy (and my first into any fiberglass) I am going out to buy the sharpest bit for this job that I can afford, new!)

My plan is to: 1) tape the mounting area and beyond off with blue painters tape; 2) GO SLOW; 3) use Reverse to gently “break through” the gel coat (LD, I read where you said in another thread, “not necessary but, will not hurt”); and, 4) use a (Corrected to SLIGHTLY SMALLER) drill bit relative to the diameter of the screw than I normally would in, say, wood ...

Question 3: What adhesive did you use?
(I am committed to doing this the absolutely best I can so, I’ll gladly spend whatever I need to, for the right adhesive.

Thanks for any details (I am very nervous but, nowhere near as anxious as the Admiral, ha-ha! :)

Oops, disregard; just spied your answer to the same question, up thread ... I’m gonna “wing it” with screws only slightly smaller in diameter than the holes in the brackets and a drill bit only slightly less diameter than those screws. ... (nervous smile!)
Bridog said:
Yes, both the top lid and sides are thin. Small SS screws and some marine adhesive/caulk helped to secure it.
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Moondoggie said:
Those that are running Vessel View Mobile, any problems with the App quitting?
Click to expand...

I am anxious to find out myself and will report back as soon as I can - I just installed the VV on my wife’s SPX190 (150 outboard) this past week but, 4+ days of steady downpours is resulting in everything under the sun being washed into the water and already has our river and lake UN-navigable for more than likely the next 2 weeks - it is VERY bad! :( :mad:

VERY jealous of you down there - had a late and beloved uncle and aunt that lived in Floral City, FL and anytime we visited we would enjoy a meal at Joes Fish House in Crystal River. Ah, land o’ Pleasant Livin’!
 
ThorSen said:
I am anxious to find out myself and will report back as soon as I can - I just installed the VV on my wife’s SPX190 (150 outboard) this past week but, 4+ days of steady downpours is resulting in everything under the sun being washed into the water and already has our river and lake UN-navigable for more than likely the next 2 weeks - it is VERY bad! :( :mad:

VERY jealous of you down there - had a late and beloved uncle and aunt that lived in Floral City, FL and anytime we visited we would enjoy a meal at Joes Fish House in Crystal River. Ah, land o’ Pleasant Livin’!
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Spent last weekend in Crystal River. Good times. VV did not crash and kept data current that weekend. Ate lunch at Crackers. Lot of rain this weekend but we needed it.
Love the ride on CR 48 into Floral City coming from the East side thru the canopy oaks.
 
ThorSen said:
@Bridog , thanks AGAIN for the great tip on the spring hatch support; ours was delivered yesterday and, we’re giddy with the thought of being able to go in- and out- of the “glove” hatch while under way without trying to juggle holding it open with other items in hand! :D

I’ve never drilled or screwed into fiberglass so, I did a search for all topic titles including the terms “drilling” and “fiberglass” and found two very informative discussions (thank you ONCE AGAIN, @lazydaze! :p ) but, I still have a couple of questions, specific to mounting this support:

Question 1: What size stainless screws did you use? (No screws came with our support; and, while I have some #8 x 1-1/2” I am pretty sure i want to go with something less in diameter and I imagine shorter (?)

Question 2: What size drill bit did you use? (I have hundreds of drill bits but, I am so anxious about drilling into the Admiral’s pride and joy (and my first into any fiberglass) I am going out to buy the sharpest bit for this job that I can afford, new!)

My plan is to: 1) tape the mounting area and beyond off with blue painters tape; 2) GO SLOW; 3) use Reverse to gently “break through” the gel coat (LD, I read where you said in another thread, “not necessary but, will not hurt”); and, 4) use a larger bit relative to the diameter of the screw than I normally would in, say, wood ...

Question 3: What adhesive did you use?
(I am committed to doing this the absolutely best I can so, I’ll gladly spend whatever I need to, for the right adhesive.

Thanks for any details (I am very nervous but, nowhere near as anxious as the Admiral, ha-ha! :)
Click to expand...
Hey ThorSen. Sorry but I didn't give it as much thought as you and don't remember specifics. I just picked up a couple different size SS screws and some water proof adhesive I had kicking around the house. (Probably don't even need that) The top of the lid and side wall of the glove box are very thin, maybe 1/4" thick at best, so you don't need very big screws. Line it up against the glove box lid and make sure it's not too long and that you don't drill too far in. Drill bit size will be based on what your screw size is. Don't stress too much. If you screw up nobody will notice since it's inside the compartment. (unless you drill through the top lid) ;)
 
Also...I just re read and you said your planning on using a bigger size diameter drill bit than the screw? Not sure why? If you do, then the screw will not have nothing to bite into? I think you may be confusing other posts about drilling larger holes into fiberglass in water prone areas. This is NOT the case here.
 
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