48 DA Owners Club

We had to replace all the head hoses from the bowl back to the vacuum pump. VERY hard access. The master runs in a PVC tube the entire run from the bowl aft. 2 men 1 day to pull that hoses with clean up. Change the funnel at the same time and rebuild the head pump. Where it exits the engine room bulk head is in front of the port engine, almost no access.
Aft head is a bit easier but still not fun. I spent about $ 2500 for this job.
In the forward head, did they pull the hose out through the toilet opening and push the new hose in the same way? Also, you mention the PVC runs the whole way. I'm assuming you can see the PVC pipe through the toilet opening and it accessible enough to push the new hose in??? Do you think if you duck taped a rope to the old hose when pulling it out, you could use that rope to pull the new hose in?
 
I'm assuming the steering and cross bar have to be removed to slide these on and remove the top nut/gland??? How are these tightened down? I don't see anything that you would wrench down. Also, do you have the part number of the one you ordered? This looks like a good solution especially if all the stuff needs to be removed anyway just to pack the gland.


Yes it all has to be moved out of the way. You need to contact Tides Marine and they will assist you in getting you the correct threaded rudder seal. I was glad I had it done.
 
In the forward head, did they pull the hose out through the toilet opening and push the new hose in the same way? Also, you mention the PVC runs the whole way. I'm assuming you can see the PVC pipe through the toilet opening and it accessible enough to push the new hose in??? Do you think if you duck taped a rope to the old hose when pulling it out, you could use that rope to pull the new hose in?
They pulled the old hose out through the bilge. They attached the new hose to the old at the bowl so as they pulled the old one out the new one followed. Not easy. They had to cut and break the sealant on the forward bilge bulk head.
 
They pulled the old hose out through the bilge. They attached the new hose to the old at the bowl so as they pulled the old one out the new one followed. Not easy. They had to cut and break the sealant on the forward bilge bulk head.
Damn, I'm not sure I'm going to be able to find anyone competent enough to do this in my area. :-(
 
I’ve had my 2007 48 for five years but I’m new to this forum and enjoy the information that comes out of it. My issue right now is that my cablemaster remote decided to die over the winter so I replaced the batteries but can’t get it to program. I’ve done what the manual says but the remote LED does not blink during the program sequence as it says it should. Anyone have experience with this or can offer a suggestion. Thanks
 
Help, my compressor for my horn is running non stop all of a sudden and my horn just clicks. I tightened the knob on the compressor and reattached the compressor to the screws with the rubber seals (it became detached from the 3 screws) but had to leave right afterwards. Anything else I should look at when I return tomorrow?
 
The weatherstripping on the vent windows has become so worn out and gummy that the windows stick to it and the motor isn’t strong enough to open them without a little push. Has anyone replaced the rubber seal before and if so do you know which profile style works best? Mine are so compressed it’s hard to say which one was used.
 

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Help, my compressor for my horn is running non stop all of a sudden and my horn just clicks. I tightened the knob on the compressor and reattached the compressor to the screws with the rubber seals (it became detached from the 3 screws) but had to leave right afterwards. Anything else I should look at when I return tomorrow?
When mine did that, I used a spray bottle with water and a few drops of Dawn and sprayed all the fittings on the compressor and tank. Two around my horn tank were leaking. I called Kahlenberg at 920-793-4607 and got a kit of new fittings for $27. Solved my problems. Use your parts manual to locate the tank - it may or may not be by the compressor - mine was not.
 
What did you use to replace your weather stripping on your vent windows?
It was actually much easier than I thought it would be. I bought a roll of “D” shaped rubber weatherstripping and it worked great. Used some goo remover and acetone to clean up the windows and the frame first. The tricky part is cutting the corners on an angle so that they overlap, a sharp pair of scissors worked great.
 

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We had it made at a local Sheetmetal shop. Let me guess, its dented from it hitting the aft cabin door? Has anyone came up with a fix for this?

I put a nice 2” suction cup on the aft cabin door (kept open against the electric panel). When the freezer or fridge door opens (and I don’t catch it), the top of the suction cup offers perfect protection.
 
I screwed a small rubber foot to the wood step which the frig door hits when swung open. ($250. To replace brushed aluminum frig door panel) Mine was dented when I bought my boat, bugged me when sitting on the couch and looking at it.
 
Hello 48 DA owners. New to me this 2008 after selling my 460. Can anyone help me find the master shower curtain. Sea Ray does not carry them anymore. Thanks. Looking forward to talking with my new forum.
 
Ahodek, great boat you have there. You are going to love the 48 Sundancer.
 
First time to post here. I really enjoy this forum and hope to contribute as much as possible. Recently I converted all my interior lights to LEDs. There had been some questions about how to change them out so I shot a quick video for anyone who would like to see how I did it. It's quite simple. Here is a link.

 
First time to post here. I really enjoy this forum and hope to contribute as much as possible. Recently I converted all my interior lights to LEDs. There had been some questions about how to change them out so I shot a quick video for anyone who would like to see how I did it. It's quite simple. Here is a link.

Thanks HoneyBadger! I have a 2008 48 Sundancer and have a question. Have you ever had to have the aftercoolers pulled off for service? I'm really curious on what has to come apart to get the starboard aftercooler off. There's very little room on that side of the bilge so there has to be some secret. Trying to avoid taking things apart that don't need to be.
 

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