Official 280 Sundancer Thread

Wanted to follow up with my findings after fixing this issue yesterday. Total job was less than a half hour. After looking at the design of the tilt column I found that there are 2 Allen head bolts that clamp the tilt helm to the input shaft on the steering rack. After removing the steering wheel, then the rubber boot and plastic trim around the tilt assembly I had access to these bolts. I was able to get nearly 2 turns on both, which removed the slop or play I was experiencing in the helm entirely. Super easy job and one more thing knocked off the list.
Had a chance to stop by the boat quickly. Got the steering wheel nut unscrewed but could not get it off. Tried gently around the entire wheel but it just won't budge. Any secret to getting it off?
 
Ok need so help from people who have had issue's with the hatch slidign door being a complete SOB. Just purchased a 2002 280DA, I knew the door had issue and require fixing but I was going to leave it until the fall.... its starting to annoy me after just two days. I have to lift it up and slide it across, it's REALLY difficult to open from inside the cabin too. any advice, greatly appreciated.... asides from cleaning and lubing the track,.
Had same problem on my 2001 280, there's a thread on it here somewhere, new roller assemblies and new track replacement, a REAL pain in the #$&
 
The A/C or Heat side won't run if the water pump is not working. What could be happening is that the fan is on so it seems like it's working. Either click on the A/C and lower the temp to the point the compressor will start or the reverse with heat. If the pump isn't working the compressor will shut down and you'll get an error code on the thermostat.

Sorry can't help with the generator.
Just wanted to give a big thanks to all of you who took the time to give me advice on the generator and AC issue. Winds up they were both a simple fix. We loosened the bleeder valve at the top of the exchanger and the radiator cap. Topped off with coolant and added more to the overflow. She is purring like a kitten..... Now I'm going to add a few more co detectors to the cabin, Since I don't fully trust just having the one the boat already has. Probably just a few from home store that ill just discretely place around the cabin.
With the AC, we closed the seacock, then took the cap off the of the strainer/filter, put a garden hose over it and purged the line with fresh water. First coolant pumped out over the side, followed by brown water, then clean sea water......that's working perfectly now too...
Thanks again!!
 
Newbie Vacuflush question....Toilet seems to flush just fine for 2 or 3 flushes then it won't flush until I turn the key right next to the toilet. Is this how the system works, you need to turn that key after every few flushes?
Thanks in advance
 
Just wanted to give a big thanks to all of you who took the time to give me advice on the generator and AC issue. Winds up they were both a simple fix. We loosened the bleeder valve at the top of the exchanger and the radiator cap. Topped off with coolant and added more to the overflow. She is purring like a kitten..... Now I'm going to add a few more co detectors to the cabin, Since I don't fully trust just having the one the boat already has. Probably just a few from home store that ill just discretely place around the cabin.
With the AC, we closed the seacock, then took the cap off the of the strainer/filter, put a garden hose over it and purged the line with fresh water. First coolant pumped out over the side, followed by brown water, then clean sea water......that's working perfectly now too...
Thanks again!!
Thanks for the follow-up . Glad this groups suggestions worked for you.
 
Newbie Vacuflush question....Toilet seems to flush just fine for 2 or 3 flushes then it won't flush until I turn the key right next to the toilet. Is this how the system works, you need to turn that key after every few flushes?
Thanks in advance
Same for me... Following this post for advice.
 
Newbie Vacuflush question....Toilet seems to flush just fine for 2 or 3 flushes then it won't flush until I turn the key right next to the toilet. Is this how the system works, you need to turn that key after every few flushes?
Thanks in advance
No, that is not how it is designed to work. You can leave that key in the 'on' position all day and should never have to touch it if it's working properly. From what you describe, the first thing that comes to mind is a wonky switch that is somehow turning back to off... or possibly loose/dirty wire connections on the back side and when you turn the key it jiggles the connections. Take it apart, check it out.

One other thought... and I've never been in this situation so I can't say with any certainty... but if the system thinks it's 'full', maybe it's limiting your flushes, yet you are able to manually override it? Maybe you can find some information in your manual about that - or look on Dometic's website for a downloadable manual.
 
I'm about to change the spark plugs on my kohler. How do I change the plug on the backside of the unit? I guess I can reach over it and change it blindly, but I'm thinking there should be an easier way?
 
Had a chance to stop by the boat quickly. Got the steering wheel nut unscrewed but could not get it off. Tried gently around the entire wheel but it just won't budge. Any secret to getting it off?


I was able to put the nut back on the shaft about 3 turns, then tap that with a mallet while pulling on the wheel and it popped off on the second tap. there is a woodruff key that will come out with it as well. a puller would make quick work of it too, but I didn't have access to one.
 
Changed the plugs over the winter, was a nightmare getting to the back one. Had to do it blindly, buy a couple of extra, can’t tell you how many I’ve dropped on the back side
 
No, that is not how it is designed to work. You can leave that key in the 'on' position all day and should never have to touch it if it's working properly. From what you describe, the first thing that comes to mind is a wonky switch that is somehow turning back to off... or possibly loose/dirty wire connections on the back side and when you turn the key it jiggles the connections. Take it apart, check it out.

One other thought... and I've never been in this situation so I can't say with any certainty... but if the system thinks it's 'full', maybe it's limiting your flushes, yet you are able to manually override it? Maybe you can find some information in your manual about that - or look on Dometic's website for a downloadable manual.
Thanks Daze, I'll have another look when I'm back to the boat. I kinda recall that when I turned the key on that it sounded like a pump was running. And that brings me to my next question. How do you pump out the waste? I thought that key pumped it out?
Thanks
 
Super simple, actually. Use a wire at least as large as the large wires on the trim pump solenoids (goes to the motor). Heck, you can even use a pair of pliers. Jump from the positive supply lead (in the middle, has a button fuse) to the the large green wire to put drives down... to the blue wire to go up. Get it? Blue like the sky, green like the ground! :)

Note... I may have done this more than once ;) Being your first time, take it slow and figure it out/ID the parts before you start touching things. You won't hurt yourself - it's 12V - but you could end up causing damage to other things. Google can help you with wiring diagrams.

Thank you again Lazy Daze for your help.
I looked at the pumps over the weekend but didn't have any wire. I tried a pair of pliers but couldn't get it to reach. Do I need to remove the Green and Blue wires and then jump them or just touch the bolt they are held on with at the pump?
 
Thank you again Lazy Daze for your help.
I looked at the pumps over the weekend but didn't have any wire. I tried a pair of pliers but couldn't get it to reach. Do I need to remove the Green and Blue wires and then jump them or just touch the bolt they are held on with at the pump?
No, you don't need to remove the wires. Basically, you're just finding another way to get +12V to those wires - the ones that go right to the pump.
 
Thanks Daze, I'll have another look when I'm back to the boat. I kinda recall that when I turned the key on that it sounded like a pump was running. And that brings me to my next question. How do you pump out the waste? I thought that key pumped it out?
Thanks

Turning the key on activates the pump, which should run till it builds pressure and then cycle off. Usually about a minute, give or take.

First, do you have the pump-out option (the key pad/switch is generic - look in the bilge for your seacock and overboard discharge pump)? The seacock needs to be open and then activate the overboard discharge pump.
 
I have a 2003 280 DA and just upgraded the VHF radio and GPS. When I disconnected the old Raymarine 215 the plug had four wires, one for power, ground and two labeled NMEA. Any one know what the two NMEA wires will do?
Also this boat is smart craft equipped but not with smartcraft gauges. Added vessel view mobile over the weekend and it worked like a charm.
Thanks
 
On newer VHF radios NMEA 0183 wires are typically run to a chartplotter. However, there are generally four of them. If this is an old radio they were more likely wires for an external speaker.
 
On newer VHF radios NMEA 0183 wires are typically run to a chartplotter. However, there are generally four of them. If this is an old radio they were more likely wires for an external speaker.
They were labled NMEA + and -.
 
Hmmm ok. I always thought that there are 2 sets NMEA wires - two for sending, the other two receiving. Perhaps there's someone on here that has the old manual for your radio.
 

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