Official 280 Sundancer Thread

You could try... pulling harder... giving the forward facing seatback a good bump.

That helps - especially if you have help - someone gently pushing from the backrest and you pulling on it. Once accomplished I'd spray the track with Sailkote which is a liquid paraffin wax.
 
All,

I've read many pages of this forum on the 280 and it has been extremely helpful on the little things that go wrong, such as the reset switch in the engine bay for the front winch, the reset button in the bathroom for electrical outlets, troubleshooting the generator (it runs so smooth once i replaced the fuel pump!) and others.
But there is one small issue that has bothered me. I take my family out for an overnight and we simply run out of water too quickly due:
1. We like to rinse out when getting out of the water at the end of the day
2. We like to take a nice warm shower before calling it a day
3. We use the sinks to wash dishes from cooking, cleaning glasses
4. We use the toilet which pulls from freshwater.

All this to say, I'm looking to put in a fresh water maker. A company called seawater pro advertises a modular system online. I looked at their design and the only thing it was really missing was an outlet flush capability. So...i took their design, priced it out and I can purchase the modular system, with mods for about $1200 total using their membrane setup. (see graphic for the design)

What I'd like from the community is thoughts on where to install the needle valve, high pressure valve and water flow meter. I'm looking to wire the ACC 1, 2 and 3 for the priming pump, high flow pump and directional solenoids to allow for pushing initial water production overboard and then filling up holding tank. The system can produce about 21 gph which is plenty for the 25 gallon tank.
I already have a plan for how to bring in the water supply, where to tie in the flush outlet and where to tap into the fresh water tank.
What I can't decide is where the needle valve and indicators mentioned above should sit so I can monitor system initiation. I thought about plumbing under the wet bar or in the bathroom or possibly above the wet bar on the radar arch (but I'd like to reserve that space for speakers on next project). I don't want it located in the engine bay as I have no plans on repeatedly opening the hatch just to monitor the levels.

Anyone have any better thoughts on where to plumb the indicators? Realize where ever i place them is water coming straight from the osmosis membrane through the indicators (needle valve will control psi and gph production) and into the fresh water holding tank.

Also, does anyone know where ACC 1,2 or 3 end? Are the wires in the engine bay?

Again, I've attached a graphic for my design.
Slide1.JPG
 
View attachment 67586 View attachment 67587 View attachment 67588 View attachment 67589 View attachment 67590 Been working with seadek to template the new cockpit flooring for my 2004 280. Finally got it all installed this weekend and couldn’t be happier with the result. Sealed all the snap holes with 3m 4000uv, only one of which wasn’t covered by the seadek. Feels great underfoot too. Color is terra over black in 6mm with a 2” teak pattern.

That looks tight. 3rd project for me.
 
USAFHaynes... Are you saying that you'd prefer to keep the indicators away from the cabin area, in case there's a leak? What about the false wall in the transom locker? It's pretty easy to access and it's easy to run wires/tubes down into the bilge. "Easy" being a relative term, of course ;)
 
Hey all, posted in the parts for sale incase anyone needed: "I have the set of 4 pillows for a 2008 Sea Ray 280 Sundancer. They are in excellent condition, not used, but just stored at home."
 
Has anyone had to replace portions of their windshield?

I took the canvas off my boat and saw that my port windshield was shattered. The curved glass has no issues.

Will I need to remove the entire upper frame and front curved glass to replace it? I am waiting on my dealership to get a quote, but I have local glass shops that can cut a piece to this size.
 

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Has anyone had to replace portions of their windshield?

I took the canvas off my boat and saw that my port windshield was shattered. The curved glass has no issues.

Will I need to remove the entire upper frame and front curved glass to replace it? I am waiting on my dealership to get a quote, but I have local glass shops that can cut a piece to this size.
Wow how did that happen?
 
You may want to contact Taylor Made they were the OEM. I would also contact Flounder Pounder
 
Wow how did that happen?
Great question. My boat is still up on blocks at the marina, and I saw it 2 days after my last visit to the boat. It appears to have originated along the bottom frame since the cracks are centralized there.
 
You may want to contact Taylor Made they were the OEM. I would also contact Flounder Pounder
Thanks for the advice. I contacted both yesterday-- Taylor will only sell the complete port windshield (curved glass, straight glass, and complete frane) and FP didn't have any available. I have a local glass company coming going out today to see what they can do with it.

Does anyone know the proper way to remove that upper railing? It looked like 3 screws plus the arm. I also don't know if the curved glass can stay in place during the install.
 
Great question. My boat is still up on blocks at the marina, and I saw it 2 days after my last visit to the boat. It appears to have originated along the bottom frame since the cracks are centralized there.
Vandalism? Could be an insurance claim.
 
I had the same issue. It turned out to be a bent rail, which probably happened if someone stood or jumped on the bench without having the support leg extended down to the deck. My sea ray dealer hooked me up with the part manufacturer and I replaced the rail. Somewhat of a PITA to do. Bolts extend into the engine compartment and upulstry had to be pulled of the forward corner of the port seat.
 
Vandalism? Could be an insurance claim.
Could be. If I have to order thru the dealership I will definitely file a claim, but I'll just pay out of pocket if the glass company can perform the work to prevent my premium from rising.
 
Firing up the generator for the first time. In the manual it says for initial start-up to remove the hose from water filter and fill hose and seawater pump with water to prime. Does everyone do this? Someone told me it's not necessary but I'd rather hear from sea ray owners.....thanks
 
USAFHaynes... Are you saying that you'd prefer to keep the indicators away from the cabin area, in case there's a leak? What about the false wall in the transom locker? It's pretty easy to access and it's easy to run wires/tubes down into the bilge. "Easy" being a relative term, of course ;)

After more reading and correcting design mistakes, looks like I will have to put the membrane (3.5" x 40") in the transom locker if able. Turns out, I'm unable to put the membrane in the engine bay due it can get damaged above 113F Degrees.

I'm currently traveling and won't be back home to work on boat until June. I'm trying to get all the planning done and order the system prior to my return. I'll be making a video of the install and the operation once done.

Does anyone know the width of the transom locker? I need about 45" to safely install the membrane and the end fittings.
 
Firing up the generator for the first time. In the manual it says for initial start-up to remove the hose from water filter and fill hose and seawater pump with water to prime. Does everyone do this? Someone told me it's not necessary but I'd rather hear from sea ray owners.....thanks

I bought a used 2006 280 that the generator had less than 100 hours. The reason? Both the impeller and the impeller shaft (both not too hard to replace) had deteriorated. Once replaced and new spark plugs, I filled up the hose from the bottom of the impeller input (water pump) before reconnecting.
Since then, all I do is put boat in water, drive for 2-3 minutes at idle speeds and then start generator. Once you fill up the line initially, it will hold water in the hose.

Also, your sig says 2008 model. If the generator has never been used or hasn't been used in a couple of years, you will definitely want to order the impeller shaft (yellow shaft behind water pump) and the impeller (inside water pump). Otherwise, you'll run into the problems I had where both were simply old, rotting and deteriorated. I replaced the impeller and didn't replace the shaft at first. Kept overheating the generator due no water flow.
Shaft
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Kohl...ocphy=9008563&hvtargid=pla-571504433415&psc=1

Impeller
https://www.amazon.com/Impeller-Rep...S49GJY5EWY6&psc=1&refRID=34ABG1325S49GJY5EWY6
 
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I bought a used 2006 280 that the generator had less than 100 hours. The reason? Both the impeller and the impeller shaft (both not too hard to replace) had deteriorated. Once replaced and new spark plugs, I filled up the hose from the bottom of the impeller input (water pump) before reconnecting.
Since then, all I do is put boat in water, drive for 2-3 minutes at idle speeds and then start generator. Once you fill up the line initially, it will hold water in the hose.

Also, your sig says 2008 model. If the generator has never been used or hasn't been used in a couple of years, you will definitely want to order the impeller shaft (yellow shaft behind water pump) and the impeller (inside water pump). Otherwise, you'll run into the problems I had where both were simply old, rotting and deteriorated. I replaced the impeller and didn't replace the shaft at first. Kept overheating the generator due no water flow.
Shaft
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Kohl...ocphy=9008563&hvtargid=pla-571504433415&psc=1

Impeller
https://www.amazon.com/Impeller-Rep...S49GJY5EWY6&psc=1&refRID=34ABG1325S49GJY5EWY6
Thanks for all the information. The gen was serviced at the beginning of last year as the broker put it on the market, and those items were replaced. So maybe it's a good id3a to just have spares on board just in case. So I'm now curious that since the gen was winterized 5 months ago, would that mean it's already primed by having coolant in the lines?
 
Does anyone have a suggestion on where I could purchase the L shaped table leg for the rear table on my 2005? I have the table, but I've looked all over the boat and cannot find the leg for it. I've googled the Sea Ray part number but the only one I can find is in Canada and the dealership wants to charge $40 for the shipping. If I can't find it somewhere else I guess I'll give them their $40 but it seems kind of ridiculous.
 
Not a good night last night. Fired up the gen and AC for the first time since the sea trial this past Oct. AC seems to work but isn't pumping out water, maybe its just an impeller in the water pump? Gen shuts down with over heating code, coolant bubbling back into the overflow, possibly a head gasket? Boats an 08 gen only has 120hrs and was pumping plenty of water out. Anyone have any input?
Thanks
 
Not a good night last night. Fired up the gen and AC for the first time since the sea trial this past Oct. AC seems to work but isn't pumping out water, maybe its just an impeller in the water pump? Gen shuts down with over heating code, coolant bubbling back into the overflow, possibly a head gasket? Boats an 08 gen only has 120hrs and was pumping plenty of water out. Anyone have any input?
Thanks
The A/C or Heat side won't run if the water pump is not working. What could be happening is that the fan is on so it seems like it's working. Either click on the A/C and lower the temp to the point the compressor will start or the reverse with heat. If the pump isn't working the compressor will shut down and you'll get an error code on the thermostat.

Sorry can't help with the generator.
 

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