40 sedan bridge forum

Thanks.
Ha, yep, first 2400 hrs never happened. LOL
Guess I’ll just keep the old tachs so that we can put 12volts to it to verify the hours for the next guy, if that ever happens.
 
I replaced my tachometers last week with Atena tachometers I like the way they work and as noted they were easy to install
 
Thanks.
Ha, yep, first 2400 hrs never happened. LOL
Guess I’ll just keep the old tachs so that we can put 12volts to it to verify the hours for the next guy, if that ever happens.
Mark, so specifically did you buy part number 8905R-P-H-DS? Did you buy them direct from Aetna or an online reseller?
 
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I was in the engine compartment today. I was wondering how hard it is to remove the couches to get more swing on the hatches? Is it possible?
Just curious as it seems like they could open further if the couches weren’t in the way.
Yes, with the couch removed, you will get full swing in the port side hatch. Its only a few screws that hold the framing
 
More than likely your leak is coming from the port air box. What happens is water can get through the louvers and collects in the bottom. When the boat was new a tube in the bottom of the air box would drain the water to the bilge. As the boat ages the sealant used to seal some screws in the bottom of the air box deteriorates and the water leaks there and migrates to the port guest bunk area.

When I recaulked the seams it stopped the majority of it, but I still had to go in and reseal the bottom of the air box.

Thank you for the help! I checked the caulk over the weekend and, visually, it appears pretty solid for the amount of water working its way in. How do you access the port air box? I am not sure how deep it goes, but it doesn't appear to be visible from either the bilge or the cabinet holding the central vac.
 
Thank you for the help! I checked the caulk over the weekend and, visually, it appears pretty solid for the amount of water working its way in. How do you access the port air box? I am not sure how deep it goes, but it doesn't appear to be visible from either the bilge or the cabinet holding the central vac.

You won't see it there, it migrates underneath.

I don't have the icemaker and use the area under the stairs as storage. You can crawl in there to access it underneath. I used Flex Seal and a brush to seal it up.

BTW, your caulk may look ok, but if it's original it's not. It doesn't take much to get a good leak going.
 
Mark, so specifically did you buy part number 8905R-P-H-DS? Did you buy them direct from Aetna or an online reseller?

Yes, that’s the number. Nobody had them in stock that I tried, so I called Aetna and they didn’t have them. They gave me some more vendors that they had sent some to recently and still no luck. I called Aetna back and they said they would make me a pair quickly and discount them to a good price that I could get online. They asked me what flywheel I have and preset the dip switches (not a big deal but nice of them) sent them out in 3 days.
 
Mark, so specifically did you buy part number 8905R-P-H-DS? Did you buy them direct from Aetna or an online reseller?
It is more expensive to buy
Mark, so specifically did you buy part number 8905R-P-H-DS? Did you buy them direct from Aetna or an online reseller?
It more expensive to buy the tachometers from Atena I bought mine from Common Ground they had the best price
 
Yes, you are right, Aetna is more, but because no one had the stainless bezel in stock, they offered to sell them to me direct at a discount comparable to a good vendor price.
 
More than likely your leak is coming from the port air box. What happens is water can get through the louvers and collects in the bottom. When the boat was new a tube in the bottom of the air box would drain the water to the bilge. As the boat ages the sealant used to seal some screws in the bottom of the air box deteriorates and the water leaks there and migrates to the port guest bunk area.

When I recaulked the seams it stopped the majority of it, but I still had to go in and reseal the bottom of the air box.
Capt Ronn, did you do the stbd side as well? If so, how is it accessed?
 
After much thought, we’ll be putting our well-loved 400 on the market in the next couple of weeks. We enjoyed the boat, but it’s time for something bigger. Located in Clear Lake, Texas if you know anyone who’s looking for a good one.

Just curiosity, what kind of boat you like to upgrade your beautiful Sea Ray 400 Sedan Bridge?. We are a couple so for us now is the perfect size, until my 2 daughters bring grand kinds then will see.

Good luck on your upgrade.
 
A couple of weeks back my port tachometer began to act up a little. I checked all the connections but no improvement. A few days later it got worse to the point that at idle it read nothing and at 2200-2300 it read close to 3000. Later in the day it just quit.
So I had the excuse I needed to get the Aetnas that I always thought would be nice but didn’t buy because there’s always something to spend the money on that really needs to be replaced.
I ordered them last week and had them sent to my daughters in NJ so that I could do the install while here visiting her for a while. The weather here is crumby, so today got the nod for the install.
There are other threads about the tachs here, but I thought that I would post to the 400DB thread because some of the other Sea Ray models apparently have different dash cutouts and the install can be a little more involved. Our dashes (at least the later models) excepts the new tachs no problem. I suspect That Sea Ray changed tachs at a certain point to a smaller size in all the models, but don’t know that for sure or what year it was if they did. The cut out in the dash is 3 3/8”, the Aetna is made to fit a 3 3/16” hole. The original tachs were 3 3/4” OD at the bezel and the Aetnas are 3 9/16”. The relief in the dash panel is wide enough to accommodate this small difference. So now there is a 3/32” “border” around the bezel to the outside of the relief that wasn’t before. I put spacers around the tach to center it in the cutout while I snugged down the bail. The bezel on the Aetnas are shaped differently (stepped) than the original (rounded) and I think that is more noticeable than the “border” around the outside. That may bother some, but I’m fine with it.
The wiring is plug and play except for the dash lights. The Aetnas use the 12v power from the ignition for the back light, so I just had to snip the terminal rings off the dash light wires and splice them together because the dash lighting for all the other gauges are daisy chained together. There is no need to remove the dash panel, everything can be done through the hatch under the helm. 5 screws to remove the hatch door and it can be moved out of the way. I think that the finished look is fine and that it doesn’t clash with the analog gauges. I will try to edit in a few pictures.

View attachment 69237

View attachment 69235

View attachment 69236
The only thing not plug and play is cutting the rings off the dash lighting wires and splicing them together to keep the daisy chain going
View attachment 69238
Mark, great job, where did you get the Aetnas? Do you have the part number and contact information?
Thank You
 
I just did mine. The outside piece is the part that seals and makes waterproof. Remove the 4 screws and start trying to get a knife between the ring and the hull. Mine was stuck pretty bad. Took about an hour to get it off.

Once you remove the caulking, you should see low profile brass nuts that holds the inside part to the hull. Remove the nuts and the inside screws should come out. Cut any caulking from the outside and you should be able to push the porthole into the boat.

Clean up all caulking. Check to make sure the core material is all sealed with epoxy including the screw holes. I drilled oversized holes for the outer ring and filled with thickened epoxy. Drill new holes for the outer ring to mount.

The port gasket and screen were caulked into place with 4200 (I think) It took me hours for clean and polish. Now I have a clean smooth surface to install the new gasket. It installs with double face tape. The screen inserts into the gasket slot.

I used butyl tape to mount the outer ring.

Good luck!

Ref: port gasket part number

Do you have the gasket part number? And where did you buy it?
I’d like to do the same job
Thank you
FeLiz Dream
 
Yes, with the couch removed, you will get full swing in the port side hatch. Its only a few screws that hold the framing
Couches removed to re-upholster last year. I would think that you could get some pretty decent swing with the lift supports removed. Disregard the goofball wiring job on the starboard side.... Was a previous owner's wiring job to get an inverter and sound from the tv to the master stateroom, and stereo cabinet. The use of a home depot extension cord was a nice touch. There are quite a few screws holding the starboard couch in place as you can see loose in the photo.
 

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Hi all, I have a thru hull with a wheel in the center. Is this just for speed or depth and speed? I have a second transducer on the port side. I want to take out the paddle wheel and install a B 60 Garmin unit in preparation for changing the electronics this summer. How difficult is it to remove this and install the new one. Thanks, Greg
 

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