40 sedan bridge forum

I have just discovered upon awakening my fresh water systems that my sump is also not pumping... yay me...
On relocating the galley sink drain....
Did everyone just go straight out to the starboard side at the same height as the other outlets?

I wanted it high enough above the waterline so that a valve/seacock is not necessary. I measured the distance from the boot stripe up to the existing thru hull from the shower sump, (that is high enough) and used that to mark a spot on the hull side where it would be closest to the sink where I could also access it easily to bed the fitting and attach the drain line. The air conditioning discharge seacocks are not high enough, at least not on my boat, so you probably do not want to use those for establishing the height.
 
Same as Mark. I lined up the bottom of the new thru hull so it was even with the bottom of shower sump thru hull. I estimated where it should be from the inside and then drilled a tiny hole from the inside to mark the approximate spot. Then I adjusted off of that hole from the outside to get the final location and used a hole saw from the outside.
 
Productive day and a half. 31 LED’s installed in cabin, in place of overhead incandescents. Many thanks to CSR and the 400 thread members who came before me that made this job a piece of cake. Only got nailed by the springs once. The first light. The warm whites I used are brighter and a bit cooler (but still warm) than the incandescents. Gives the interior a bright look like a new boat. Love it! Now I need to order the festoons for the cockpit and bridge...

8479A739-0114-4B9F-8710-CADAE488F7F0.jpeg


Pardon the mess. Still moving in!

Also upgraded the stereo receiver. Went with the Fusion RA70NSX. Not sure I’ll ever add Sirius, but there’s a deal out there now with free months and a rebate for the mobile antenna, making it almost free. So who knows? I will add a nmea2000 network someday. So I’ve got that feature in place.

I kept it simple, with two zones. Cabin and outside. Kept the existing Clarion amp for now, driving the outside speakers and subwoofer. The Fusion can only drive single 4 ohm loads on the speaker wires, so I couldn’t safely drive all the cabin speakers directly. I added a cheap amp inside the cabinet behind the head unit. It was added only for connectivity - to drive all 4 indoor speakers from the RCA outputs of the head unit. I have a wireless remote set up. Speakers will come along eventually. The Fusion app is cool. Streaming Spotify as I type this...

While I was busy with all of this, the GF was giving the boat a majornscrub down. It needed it. Now the dirt we find will be from us! Lol.

Time to call it a day.
 
Moving the sink drain directly over board vs. the sump is one of the best things that we could have done. Thank you to Bill ZZ13 for helping me on that. One of my float switch wires in my sump corroded in two that I discovered last week, so I took the entire thing apart, scrubbed it, and replaced it all back with a new pump and float, while I was in there anyway. I considered replacing the gasket, but like Bill said, unless the pump is not working, it should never really get that high. There is an over flow tube that will dump the sump into the forward engine room bilge to be pumped out there, before it comes out of the lid, which is how I discovered my float being bad.
Drafter, did you put a p- trap in when you did the drain? Mostly to keep out bugs and exhaust fumes.
 
Productive day and a half. 31 LED’s installed in cabin, in place of overhead incandescents. Many thanks to CSR and the 400 thread members who came before me that made this job a piece of cake. Only got nailed by the springs once. The first light. The warm whites I used are brighter and a bit cooler (but still warm) than the incandescents. Gives the interior a bright look like a new boat. Love it! Now I need to order the festoons for the cockpit and bridge...

View attachment 68058

The lights look great! I changed the exterior lights to LED's from MarineBeam years ago and love them. Do you have a link to the bulbs you used for the interior?
 
Drafter, did you put a p- trap in when you did the drain? Mostly to keep out bugs and exhaust fumes.
I did not. It's a straight simple shot out. We toss a flat rubber drain stopper over the top of it when we're not there to keep any insects out, and exhaust fumes have never seemed to be a problem. Looks like you have a 99. I believe that your hull is cored as mine was.
 

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I did not. It's a straight simple shot out. We toss a flat rubber drain stopper over the top of it when we're not there to keep any insects out, and exhaust fumes have never seemed to be a problem. Looks like you have a 99. I believe that your hull is cored as mine was.
Yes it is. Did you epoxy your cut out?
 
Yes it is. Did you epoxy your cut out?
I did not. I slathered the opening with 5200 and let it set up for a week, then came back and got it a second time pretty thick and installed the thru hull. I let that set up over night and then installed the hose and clamp on the back side. I'm not saying that that's the perfect way to do it, but I felt comfortable with that, with the hole above the water line.
 
Quick (easy?) few of questions:

1) I got all the lights on the boat (except Nav and Bilge) replaced with LED’s. Then I noticed the 2 on the radar arch. Doh! I’m not at the boat now. Are they the same festoon bulbs as the cockpit or are they G4’s like the cockpit ceiling?

2) speaking of the cockpit ceiling, what are folks doing about the lights’ trim rings? Two of my three are experiencing severe paint flaking. I may just sand them down and repaint. But if there are reasonably priced replacements, I’d like to hear about them. Stainless or white, either is fine.

3) On the bridge, has anyone replaced the table base? On mine, the aluminum is cracked. So it wobbles. I need to replace it - does anyone know the part? Looks like West Marine may have a direct match. Does anyone know if I can get a drop in replacement base that supports a slightly larger diameter pole? (I have a custom Sea Ray wood table I’d like to put there instead of the huge white plastic one)

Thx.
 
Quick (easy?) few of questions:

1) I got all the lights on the boat (except Nav and Bilge) replaced with LED’s. Then I noticed the 2 on the radar arch. Doh! I’m not at the boat now. Are they the same festoon bulbs as the cockpit or are they G4’s like the cockpit ceiling?

2) speaking of the cockpit ceiling, what are folks doing about the lights’ trim rings? Two of my three are experiencing severe paint flaking. I may just sand them down and repaint. But if there are reasonably priced replacements, I’d like to hear about them. Stainless or white, either is fine.

3) On the bridge, has anyone replaced the table base? On mine, the aluminum is cracked. So it wobbles. I need to replace it - does anyone know the part? Looks like West Marine may have a direct match. Does anyone know if I can get a drop in replacement base that supports a slightly larger diameter pole? (I have a custom Sea Ray wood table I’d like to put there instead of the huge white plastic one)

Thx.

Radar arch lights are festoon in mine. The cockpit overhead light rings, sanded them clean with a dremel and spray painted them with cheap gloss white quick dry paint from Home Depot. Been 5 years and holding the paint strong and still looking good. Can’t answer the last question.
 
Radar arch lights are festoon in mine. The cockpit overhead light rings, sanded them clean with a dremel and spray painted them with cheap gloss white quick dry paint from Home Depot. Been 5 years and holding the paint strong and still looking good. Can’t answer the last question.

Thanks. I figured they were the same as the rest of the cockpit.

A Dremel is a great idea. A lot easier than a scraper or sandpaper! LOL Thanks!

As for the base, I saw that Flounder Pounder has a couple. But so does West Marine. I may take the one i have off the boat and go to West Marine to compare. And the WM price was actually less than FP's. Yep... imagine that...
 
Is there supposed to be a cover over the “Engine Shutdown Override System” switch?

Seems like it might be easy to accidentally trip.
 
New project today adding a little more light to the flybridge vs. just the two recessed perko lights on either side of my helm area. Simple LED self stick strips tucked into the joint and aluminum trim on the U shape seating base, and wired directly off of the starboard perko light. They cannot be seen tucked into the trim when not on while standing. Took 12' of LED strips that plug together in 2' strips, picked up at an RV store, and usually designed to mount to the under side of entry steps to an RV.
 

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New project today adding a little more light to the flybridge vs. just the two recessed perko lights on either side of my helm area. Simple LED self stick strips tucked into the joint and aluminum trim on the U shape seating base, and wired directly off of the starboard perko light. They cannot be seen tucked into the trim when not on while standing. Took 12' of LED strips that plug together in 2' strips, picked up at an RV store, and usually designed to mount to the under side of entry steps to an RV.

Great addition. Looks nice.
 
New project today adding a little more light to the flybridge vs. just the two recessed perko lights on either side of my helm area. Simple LED self stick strips tucked into the joint and aluminum trim on the U shape seating base, and wired directly off of the starboard perko light. They cannot be seen tucked into the trim when not on while standing. Took 12' of LED strips that plug together in 2' strips, picked up at an RV store, and usually designed to mount to the under side of entry steps to an RV.

That’s creative! And looks good. I was wondering about adding light there, too. Did you just make a hole in the SB wall and then tap into the wire for the Perko?

Anyone replicating this should make sure they have changed their existing lights to LED’s and then calculate the load drawn by the new strips. Ideally, you’d want to keep the load of the strips plus the SB LED to be less than the original 10W bulb (which it probably is, but you always want to do the math).
 
Good morning fellow DB’ers, has anyone replaced/refilled their engine Haylon system/display? Can you still get the bottle refilled? Know who sells the Sea-Fire parts? Any help would be appreciated.
 
That’s creative! And looks good. I was wondering about adding light there, too. Did you just make a hole in the SB wall and then tap into the wire for the Perko?

Anyone replicating this should make sure they have changed their existing lights to LED’s and then calculate the load drawn by the new strips. Ideally, you’d want to keep the load of the strips plus the SB LED to be less than the original 10W bulb (which it probably is, but you always want to do the math).
Yes, everything on my boat has been switched to LED's with exception of my forward red and green nav lights, gauge lights, and of course spot light. Nav lights are next, I just haven't had them apart to see what bulb it takes. The strip lights draw very, very, little power. I drilled a very small 1/8" hole in the gunnel behind the seat base to run the wire to the factory perko light.
 
Yes, everything on my boat has been switched to LED's with exception of my forward red and green nav lights, gauge lights, and of course spot light. Nav lights are next, I just haven't had them apart to see what bulb it takes. The strip lights draw very, very, little power. I drilled a very small 1/8" hole in the gunnel behind the seat base to run the wire to the factory perko light.

Just ordered the nav lights. Marinebeam recommended red for the red and green for the green, as opposed to white behind the colored lens. The original bulbs are Perko 0070DP1CLR and the replacement LEDs are these. Specify red and geeen:

https://store.marinebeam.com/30-led-42mm-cone-end-festoon-mini-max-fs-42-30c/
 
Good morning fellow DB’ers, has anyone replaced/refilled their engine Haylon system/display? Can you still get the bottle refilled? Know who sells the Sea-Fire parts? Any help would be appreciated.
Halon is not manufactured anymore by law, effective 1994. At one time there was enough inventory floating around that you could get a refill. But it seems to be pretty much gone now. The replacement chemical takes about three times as much volume to get the same effect. So a replacement tank will be bigger. Call Sea-Fire and they will inform you of all your options.
 

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