Official 330 Express Cruiser / 340 Amberjack 1997-2003 Thread

Hey all, I am new to the 330/EC 340 Amberjack ownership. This group is great.
Uplander or Joeyleggz, How would you address this issue? Seams like water can always get in those vents?

With the design of the vent not much water gets in unless the water hits it sideways. Washing the boat probably introduces the most water. The water that does get in will land in a type of plywood half box (as to prevent the water from getting into the engine room itself but air still gets into the ER) then drain out through a fitting in the one corner. The drain hose goes through the engine room and back to a small fitting on each side of the cockpit and drains onto the lower floor which because of the slant is supposed to travel to the outer sides of the cockpit then aft to the scuppers. Not a good design if you have carpet. Mould and mildew is an issue as a result.

The problem I found with mine was the drain in that "half box". It wasn't at the lowest point so water just sat in the other corner and eventually worked its way through the wooden joints and dripped into the engine room. My solution was to remove the outer and inner vent cover and use that black spray seal that you see on TV. You know, the commercial where they use a screen door on the bottom of a boat, seal it, then take the boat out to a pond and it doesn't sink! I just sprayed all over the corner where water accumulated (really couldn't see and spray at the same time) and I haven't had an issue since. That was at least 5yrs ago.
 
C8A28B05-A04B-4A31-B36E-6FB7E37DD3AC.png
38142BC6-717E-4962-979B-F80FED59DF76.png
Here’s a few pictures from someone else doing the job I don’t believe they are on this form though, this is what it looks like on the inside real shitty design. I believe the inside view is on the port side of the boat with drain hole at the aft corner
 
Well I figured where the water in my engine room was coming from, it was from the latch handle of the engine room hatch door (i may have just butchered that description - the handle for the pull up door/access to the engine room in between the two helm seats). I had just pumped out all the water in the bilge, then did a major wash on the boat including the the entire cockpit/helm area. When I was done I lifted up that door and water was dripping directly down through the latch/handle, quite a bit of it, and quite a bit had accumulated in the middle part of the bilge. My fish box has two of the same latches/handles and they don't leak. Anyone know if a fix for that, short of replacement?
 
Well I figured where the water in my engine room was coming from, it was from the latch handle of the engine room hatch door (i may have just butchered that description - the handle for the pull up door/access to the engine room in between the two helm seats). I had just pumped out all the water in the bilge, then did a major wash on the boat including the the entire cockpit/helm area. When I was done I lifted up that door and water was dripping directly down through the latch/handle, quite a bit of it, and quite a bit had accumulated in the middle part of the bilge. My fish box has two of the same latches/handles and they don't leak. Anyone know if a fix for that, short of replacement?
If you have water getting through the handle that means at the core of the hatch is probably soaked and will need to be rebedded the balsa core wood in there will rot out you may have found another leak but not all the leaks that may be filling up your engine bilge,on the outbound side of the port and starboard behind the mufflers you will see water pooling up if it is in fact leaking from your vents And working its way down to the center part of the bilge I would also check there
 
Spring is kinda here on the Great Lakes. Lots to do around the house and lots to do to get the boat ready. I was contemplating putting off my plans to install a new cabin floor, but I found a way to ensure I can’t do that....

Carpet came up pretty easy. I used a wallpaper scraper, a utility knife, and a good set of pliers (for the hard to reach areas). Took about 2 hours.

Next on the agenda is building new tops for storage area and fresh water tank area.

I’ll take some Picts during process .
 

Attachments

  • 4B812183-D95E-4922-9220-321AC60079AE.jpeg
    4B812183-D95E-4922-9220-321AC60079AE.jpeg
    149.1 KB · Views: 210
Spring is kinda here on the Great Lakes. Lots to do around the house and lots to do to get the boat ready. I was contemplating putting off my plans to install a new cabin floor, but I found a way to ensure I can’t do that....

Carpet came up pretty easy. I used a wallpaper scraper, a utility knife, and a good set of pliers (for the hard to reach areas). Took about 2 hours.

Next on the agenda is building new tops for storage area and fresh water tank area.

I’ll take some Picts during process .
Wanting to do this too will be watching
 
- So I'm getting ready to install my new fusion headunit which is taken place of the kenwood kmr-700u which comes with a amplifier. My question is i bought a JL Audio amp, can i just detach the old amplifier and hook up the JL or should i run new cables?

- I also bought new heat exchangers and oil & trans coolers does anybody know of step by step instructions, or is their a thread on it? Thanks guys.
 
I’d run new wires if I put out the money for a JL amp.

They might be fine, they might not be....

My boat did not have a factory amp, so it was all new wires for the amp. My speakers were upgraded by the previous owner with new wires, but the new speakers all got new wiring. Extra work, but I know it’s all done right.
 
is there an easy access port to run the wires up to where the existing headunit/amp area is?
 
is there an easy access port to run the wires up to where the existing headunit/amp area is?

I don’t know where the factory amp is (I didn’t have one). My head unit/CD changer was in a corner cabinet on the starboard side of the cabin. I installed a new Fusion in the same spot. I installed my amp (JL M1000/5) in the shallow “map” cabinet that is between the stereo cabinet and the stairs.

To run new wiring to the amp or head unit you will need to remove the entire plastic side panel (right side of captains chair). With that out you can feed wires down to the engine bay for your battery/neutral amp wire and to the amp in the cabin. It also gives you access if you need/want to run new speaker wires.
 
is there an easy access port to run the wires up to where the existing headunit/amp area is?
There is a access panel inside the first cabinet starboard side next to the radio cabinet . Look inside you will se a plate with 4 screws
 
Cabin Floor Project:

New cabin floor is coming along. Doing a glue down vinyl has turned into quite the project. I’m confident it will be nicer in the end than a floating snap together floor, but the addition effort is significant.

I had to rebuild the supports for the hatch over the fresh water tank; they were junk. I opted to eliminate most of this hatch during the floor install. I still have access to the tanks fittings under the AC. (I left a portion removable there). After supports were in place I cut a piece of 3/4” ply to fit. I cut back the top layer of the floor 2” on each side for the 1/2” ply top layer. (The floor in the cabin is 3/4” on the bottom with a 1/2” layer on top). The 1/2” ply overlaps to increase strength of the floor.

Next to the floor storage hatch. I had to rebuild this, because the old one was only 3/4” ply and was cut sloppy to accommodate carpet. The new one is 3/4” and 1/2” ply laminated together with Tighybond III.

To make the hatch fit perfect I picked up some 1/4”x 1 1/4” poplar boards from Lowes. With the lid in place I shimmed the trim boards 1/8” from the lid (paint stir sticks were used). I then filled the gap with fast set epoxy.

The new lid fits perfect.

After this was done I had to do quite a bit of sanding to knock down the high spots on the old floor. I still have a bit of filler work to do tomorrow before I glue down the floor.

For those considering this figure about 3 solid days of prep work prior to the floor install....

Will post the finished pictures in the near term.
 

Attachments

  • FC379053-7B6E-4811-9C8C-977DC0DEFAEA.jpeg
    FC379053-7B6E-4811-9C8C-977DC0DEFAEA.jpeg
    94.4 KB · Views: 240
  • E94A8AB3-92FA-4325-875E-DA522D9CC06E.jpeg
    E94A8AB3-92FA-4325-875E-DA522D9CC06E.jpeg
    89.8 KB · Views: 223
  • 2808686B-0AA0-4AD4-AA96-391275F0BCF8.jpeg
    2808686B-0AA0-4AD4-AA96-391275F0BCF8.jpeg
    102.2 KB · Views: 219
  • 0F85739B-CCF0-4907-AB2B-9902F738470F.jpeg
    0F85739B-CCF0-4907-AB2B-9902F738470F.jpeg
    93.4 KB · Views: 222
  • 5E09A88F-4A7C-45BA-808F-5189985B47C5.jpeg
    5E09A88F-4A7C-45BA-808F-5189985B47C5.jpeg
    137.7 KB · Views: 228
  • 5F293AAB-6A75-40C1-B24C-09C74B1E6165.jpeg
    5F293AAB-6A75-40C1-B24C-09C74B1E6165.jpeg
    173 KB · Views: 231
  • C6874F4E-6C50-4C2B-B924-3947D32674FE.jpeg
    C6874F4E-6C50-4C2B-B924-3947D32674FE.jpeg
    125.8 KB · Views: 225
Cabin Floor Project:

New cabin floor is coming along. Doing a glue down vinyl has turned into quite the project. I’m confident it will be nicer in the end than a floating snap together floor, but the addition effort is significant.

I had to rebuild the supports for the hatch over the fresh water tank; they were junk. I opted to eliminate most of this hatch during the floor install. I still have access to the tanks fittings under the AC. (I left a portion removable there). After supports were in place I cut a piece of 3/4” ply to fit. I cut back the top layer of the floor 2” on each side for the 1/2” ply top layer. (The floor in the cabin is 3/4” on the bottom with a 1/2” layer on top). The 1/2” ply overlaps to increase strength of the floor.

Next to the floor storage hatch. I had to rebuild this, because the old one was only 3/4” ply and was cut sloppy to accommodate carpet. The new one is 3/4” and 1/2” ply laminated together with Tighybond III.

To make the hatch fit perfect I picked up some 1/4”x 1 1/4” poplar boards from Lowes. With the lid in place I shimmed the trim boards 1/8” from the lid (paint stir sticks were used). I then filled the gap with fast set epoxy.

The new lid fits perfect.

After this was done I had to do quite a bit of sanding to knock down the high spots on the old floor. I still have a bit of filler work to do tomorrow before I glue down the floor.

For those considering this figure about 3 solid days of prep work prior to the floor install....

Will post the finished pictures in the near term.
Wow looking good but that’s a Ton of work is scaring me at this point you’re practically disassembled well everything keep it Comin good luck
 
So this weekend I plan on installing my heat exchangers, oil and transmission coolers is their any easy way to drain the blocks without making a mess and does anybody have any input on what the easiest process would be?
 
I don’t know where the factory amp is (I didn’t have one). My head unit/CD changer was in a corner cabinet on the starboard side of the cabin. I installed a new Fusion in the same spot. I installed my amp (JL M1000/5) in the shallow “map” cabinet that is between the stereo cabinet and the stairs.

Snapped a couple Picts of my amp install while finishing up the floor today. This is a real nice place for an amp, as it allows easy access for tuning and is well protected. You could probably squeeze two smaller amps in here if doing a dual amp install. (I still need to pict up drawer unit for where the CD changers was; there are some economical options on EBay).
 

Attachments

  • ECEE76B4-0906-4BB3-BDBE-CEF422447DBE.jpeg
    ECEE76B4-0906-4BB3-BDBE-CEF422447DBE.jpeg
    104.7 KB · Views: 221
  • A627A811-93E9-4032-8697-605802A5D022.jpeg
    A627A811-93E9-4032-8697-605802A5D022.jpeg
    94.5 KB · Views: 225
Hey guys I just picked up some lumitec seablazeX’s just wondering if anybody has put underwater lights in their boat. I was also wondering how you guys wired it and where you put the lights on the transom
 
Hey guys I just picked up some lumitec seablazeX’s just wondering if anybody has put underwater lights in their boat. I was also wondering how you guys wired it and where you put the lights on the transom

My boat came with a set of blue underwater lights on it. They are mounted about a foot below where the swim platform is attached to the transom. They look cool, but I don’t use them all that often. The previous owner that either installed them or had them installed wired them to the switch that turns on the engine room lights (next to the “tuna door”). Running the lights to a dedicated switch at the helm is on my to do list. Fishing wires from the stern to the engine room to the helm is a bit of a pain, but do-able (I had to do it when running wires for downriggers).
 
New to this thread first post I have a 1997 330 EC with mercruiser 340hp bluewater. Im looking for replacement canvas but I cant seem to find the rear sun shade cover or rear bimini. Does anyone know where i can find one?
 
Sorry I'm not replying to anything in particular just asking for advice on a new cabin fridge. Need one for a 97 330 EC. Direct replacement, don't want to cut or adapt unless absolutely necessary and in particular not have to disassemble it to get it through the cabin door. Is this possible. Made the mistake of starting this on the general forum and got hijacked by DA owners last summer. I'm ready to buy asap. Thanks all
 
New to this thread first post I have a 1997 330 EC with mercruiser 340hp bluewater. Im looking for replacement canvas but I cant seem to find the rear sun shade cover or rear bimini. Does anyone know where i can find one?
Great lakes canvas look them up online they have exact replacement canvas for our boats welcome aboard !!!
 

Forum statistics

Threads
112,950
Messages
1,422,861
Members
60,932
Latest member
juliediane
Back
Top