40 sedan bridge forum

Guess I'm a bit confused as to why you had to cut your floors to get to the vacuflush units. I have a '99 as well, and I recently changed the duckbill valves by accessing the units through the access under the bunk in the port guest stateroom. Tight access, but I got the job done.

I believe the OP stated he had the 3 stateroom layout which may be different? I changed mine on my 98 2 stateroom layout and it wasn’t bad.
 
Congrats! that was me a few months ago. How long of a run was it? Would love to hear your feedback as a fellow "former 320 cruiser" piloting the 40 footer bridge.

Unfortunately, it wasn’t a long ride. About an hour. I bought a boat from a friend in our boating group. I say “unfortunately” because I was hoping to get a boat from New England, or Long Island Sound, or the Carolinas so I could have a nice adventure cruise bringing her home. I guess I’ll have to plan my bucket list trips on my own!

She ran great. We had good winds on the starboard for half the time (20-25+) knots. And the headwinds heading in. The winds blew me ON to the finger pier on my slip, which was really a good thing! She handled it all well and was easy to pilot. Even docking in those winds wasn’t too stressful. I was confident in myself, just had to get familiar with the sight lines and size of the larger vessel. Kinda like parallel parking a Town Car when you’re used to driving a Taurus! I love being up high and enjoy being able to sit while I cruise. We have a long way to go to provision the cabin and living areas, and I have a lot to learn. But being a Sea Ray guy, everything feels familiar. And the 400 is the same year as my 320 so even the decor is the same. I think I’m going to love this boat!
 
Nepenthe, thanks for the info. I am looking to change out my transducer. Greg
I believe the OP stated he had the 3 stateroom layout which may be different? I changed mine on my 98 2 stateroom layout and it wasn’t bad.
The vacuum generators were shaped like an L with the highest point several inches above the long support beams. Thus it was impossible to remove or even service then from the port stateroom opening. Additionally, the firewall stern and support beam situated forward of the VGs made it impossible to slide forward. I had 2 mechanics and 3 fellow sea ray owners search with amazement for any serviceable access. They all shook their heads in shock. Once I created the access shown in the pictures, a thorough inspection revealed that was the only option.
 
I believe the OP stated he had the 3 stateroom layout which may be different? I changed mine on my 98 2 stateroom layout and it wasn’t bad.
I initially thought mine would be easy after watching a YouTube video of this guy boogaboo who also owned our boat. I was mortified to discover my configuration was completely different. I hope my pictures and story help other owners that are confronted with the same obstacle.
 
The vacuum generators were shaped like an L with the highest point several inches above the long support beams. Thus it was impossible to remove or even service then from the port stateroom opening. Additionally, the firewall stern and support beam situated forward of the VGs made it impossible to slide forward. I had 2 mechanics and 3 fellow sea ray owners search with amazement for any serviceable access. They all shook their heads in shock. Once I created the access shown in the pictures, a thorough inspection revealed that was the only option.
I remove the shower sump and pulled out a 2x4 support to gain access, sliding the VGs forward and out. Currious if that is just not an option with the 3 stateroom layout.
 
Guess I'm a bit confused as to why you had to cut your floors to get to the vacuflush units. I have a '99 as well, and I recently changed the duckbill valves by accessing the units through the access under the bunk in the port guest stateroom. Tight access, but I got the job done.
Wish my access was the same. I replied later in the thread details of how my servicing access could only be achieved from the top
 
I have the original ac water circulation pump on my boat from 1998. During the recommission of my 06 340 Sundancer last week I found that the pump was locked up and had to be replaced.

It could be a catastrophic event to have the pump fail during one of our 100 degree weekends so I want to puchase a spare pump. Has anyone replaced theirs and can you make a recommendation as to what brand and model?
Boy do I love amazon....bought this in 2014
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008EKXSNO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
5F07C944-D617-4631-B781-387EF9C0BFB9.jpeg
View attachment 67010 View attachment 67010 Hi fellow 400DB owners. Has anyone replaced their “Four Hundred” decal? Any experience with this one?

I just like a more modern look, this is what I did, I changed all the lines and put a 400 number, it looks more modern for my taste.
 
In my surveyor's report, he highlighted two hoses that need to be replaced quickly. One is the raw water intake hose for the AC. The one coming from the thru-hull seacock to the strainer. The other is the Westerbeke (8.0BTDA) generator's exhaust hose, running from the gen muffler to the hull discharge.

The Parts Manual calls out the following for the AC intake hose:

124693 HOSE, WATER 3/4" EX HVY DTY

The drawing in the parts manual shows it connecting to a right angle elbow at the thru-hull, which I don't have (see pic below). Do I just measure the length of the existing hose and buy an Extra Heavy Duty 3/4" water hose? Does anyone have a recommended source? (and yes, I plan to inspect and likely get new clamps)

Similarly, my parts manual doesn't have drawings for a Westerbeke generator. Just Onan and Kohler. And that's OK, because the drawings are F'ed up anyway (the numerical labels on the drawing do NOT match the descriptions... LOL). But they do call out the following for the exhaust hose:

124172 HOSE, EXHAUST 2" HW

Same thing here: Can I just buy a 2" hot water hose and cut it to the same length as what's in there now? Anyone have a source?

Here's pics, for reference:

AC Intake Hose:
AC hose.jpg

Generator Exhaust Hose:
Gen Hose.jpg


Thx,
 
In my surveyor's report, he highlighted two hoses that need to be replaced quickly. One is the raw water intake hose for the AC. The one coming from the thru-hull seacock to the strainer. The other is the Westerbeke (8.0BTDA) generator's exhaust hose, running from the gen muffler to the hull discharge.

The Parts Manual calls out the following for the AC intake hose:

124693 HOSE, WATER 3/4" EX HVY DTY

The drawing in the parts manual shows it connecting to a right angle elbow at the thru-hull, which I don't have (see pic below). Do I just measure the length of the existing hose and buy an Extra Heavy Duty 3/4" water hose? Does anyone have a recommended source? (and yes, I plan to inspect and likely get new clamps)

Similarly, my parts manual doesn't have drawings for a Westerbeke generator. Just Onan and Kohler. And that's OK, because the drawings are F'ed up anyway (the numerical labels on the drawing do NOT match the descriptions... LOL). But they do call out the following for the exhaust hose:

124172 HOSE, EXHAUST 2" HW

Same thing here: Can I just buy a 2" hot water hose and cut it to the same length as what's in there now? Anyone have a source?

Here's pics, for reference:

AC Intake Hose:View attachment 67446
Generator Exhaust Hose:
View attachment 67445

Thx,


I suggest using a little longer piece of 2” wet exhaust hose for the gen. Long enough so that the top of the loop touches the er ceiling. Place a clamp on it to the ceiling so it doesn’t chafe. When the boat gets to rocking in a bad beam sea (think anchored and some guy wakes you badly) you want that hose as high up as you can get it.
Good luck.
 
I suggest using a little longer piece of 2” wet exhaust hose for the gen. Long enough so that the top of the loop touches the er ceiling. Place a clamp on it to the ceiling so it doesn’t chafe. When the boat gets to rocking in a bad beam sea (think anchored and some guy wakes you badly) you want that hose as high up as you can get it.
Good luck.

Good advice. Clamping it high also keeps a rather shallow bend radius in the pipe, which is good for pipe longevity and exhaust flow! And thanks for the pic - that answers my question about what pipe to get!
 
I had to do the same - it's not too bad of a job. The longest part is running the new transducer wire from the bilge to the bridge. Good luck!
Nepenthe, did you remove one of the old transducers? Did you have any issues with the the cored hull if you have one? Thanks, Greg
 

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