40 sedan bridge forum

TotallyGross said:
SOOOOO I spent another half day trying to get that sleeve to go higher. It seems to be stuck or screwed down. I could not get it to move at all. I was hoping to at least get it to hold but I did not have any luck. I think I may need to contact the seat ray dealer and just get it done.
The seat wouldn't go lower and the sleeve would not go higher.
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Did you try removing the pedestal base (hex socket screw heads)?Then you can get at it from the bottom. I actually permanently removed the hydraulic ram and my seats are no longer adjustable in height but are at a good height for us.
 
ZZ13 said:
Did you try removing the pedestal base (hex socket screw heads)?Then you can get at it from the bottom. I actually permanently removed the hydraulic ram and my seats are no longer adjustable in height but are at a good height for us.
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I think this may be my next plan of attack.
I was wondering if I remove the entire base will the ram be able to be removed and just reinstall the base? At this point I would be very happy with this just for a check out ride next weekend.
 
TotallyGross said:
I think this may be my next plan of attack.
I was wondering if I remove the entire base will the ram be able to be removed and just reinstall the base? At this point I would be very happy with this just for a check out ride next weekend.
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Yes, super easy to remove the RAM. I found that the lowest height setting was by far the best setting anyway. Actually it's still even a bit to high at that. So I just removed the RAM when the RAM failed. You will still need to solve your binding problem to get the two sleeves lined up and screwed together.
 
Has anyone had these apart to replace the gaskets? If so, how did the process go, and anything to look out for? Do the inside and outside flanges just unscrew from each other? My starboard side is leaking, and my port needs a new screen.
 

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Drafter said:
Has anyone had these apart to replace the gaskets? If so, how did the process go, and anything to look out for? Do the inside and outside flanges just unscrew from each other? My starboard side is leaking, and my port needs a new screen.
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Check if the screen comes out from the inside, as the window is open. I have plastic removable screen inserts on mine.
 
Drafter said:
Has anyone had these apart to replace the gaskets? If so, how did the process go, and anything to look out for? Do the inside and outside flanges just unscrew from each other? My starboard side is leaking, and my port needs a new screen.
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I just did mine. The outside piece is the part that seals and makes waterproof. Remove the 4 screws and start trying to get a knife between the ring and the hull. Mine was stuck pretty bad. Took about an hour to get it off.

Once you remove the caulking, you should see low profile brass nuts that holds the inside part to the hull. Remove the nuts and the inside screws should come out. Cut any caulking from the outside and you should be able to push the porthole into the boat.

Clean up all caulking. Check to make sure the core material is all sealed with epoxy including the screw holes. I drilled oversized holes for the outer ring and filled with thickened epoxy. Drill new holes for the outer ring to mount.

The port gasket and screen were caulked into place with 4200 (I think) It took me hours for clean and polish. Now I have a clean smooth surface to install the new gasket. It installs with double face tape. The screen inserts into the gasket slot.

I used butyl tape to mount the outer ring.

Good luck!
 
Cdrauch said:
I just did mine. The outside piece is the part that seals and makes waterproof. Remove the 4 screws and start trying to get a knife between the ring and the hull. Mine was stuck pretty bad. Took about an hour to get it off.

Once you remove the caulking, you should see low profile brass nuts that holds the inside part to the hull. Remove the nuts and the inside screws should come out. Cut any caulking from the outside and you should be able to push the porthole into the boat.

Clean up all caulking. Check to make sure the core material is all sealed with epoxy including the screw holes. I drilled oversized holes for the outer ring and filled with thickened epoxy. Drill new holes for the outer ring to mount.

The port gasket and screen were caulked into place with 4200 (I think) It took me hours for clean and polish. Now I have a clean smooth surface to install the new gasket. It installs with double face tape. The screen inserts into the gasket slot.

I used butyl tape to mount the outer ring.

Good luck!
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Terrific. Thank you very much for that. I'll get a new gasket ordered from Bomar.
 
Found a leaky original cold water fitting from a sizable crack in the fitting on the main line just before the T. Fortunately I had bought spares of about every size when I bought the boat.
 

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Grizzly Sauce said:
Bump
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I suck the fluid out from the dipstick hole with an extractor. Then I put a aluminum lasagna pan under the transmission to drain anything remaining from drain plug. Pan goes in and out without tipping it. You can find a big enough pan to capture the entire gallon. Kitty litter pan would have more support. Here are the two sized pans I have around the house.
 

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ZZ13 said:
I suck the fluid out from the dipstick hole with an extractor. Then I put a aluminum lasagna pan under the transmission to drain anything remaining from drain plug. Pan goes in and out without tipping it. You can find a big enough pan to capture the entire gallon. Kitty litter pan would have more support. Here are the two sized pans I have around the house.
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ZZ13, thanks. That is a great idea with the pans. Greg
 
Maiden voyage, bringing her to her new home. Didn't do too bad docking for the first time. It took several tries, but for my first time at the helm and with winds around 20 knots and gusts to the mid-20's, I was glad to get her in the slip without bumping anything or losing any crew overboard!

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I have the original ac water circulation pump on my boat from 1998. During the recommission of my 06 340 Sundancer last week I found that the pump was locked up and had to be replaced.

It could be a catastrophic event to have the pump fail during one of our 100 degree weekends so I want to puchase a spare pump. Has anyone replaced theirs and can you make a recommendation as to what brand and model?
 
ZZ13 said:
I replaced mine with the Shurflo Aqua King II 3.0gpm
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ZZ, you replaced the AC circulating pump with a sureflo 3.0 gpm pump? Was it rated for the higher duty cycles? Or are you referencing the water system pump? Just confirming in case I need to do the same.
 
scooper321 said:
Maiden voyage, bringing her to her new home. Didn't do too bad docking for the first time. It took several tries, but for my first time at the helm and with winds around 20 knots and gusts to the mid-20's, I was glad to get her in the slip without bumping anything or losing any crew overboard!

View attachment 67392
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Congrats! that was me a few months ago. How long of a run was it? Would love to hear your feedback as a fellow "former 320 cruiser" piloting the 40 footer bridge.
 
Prosideus said:
ZZ, you replaced the AC circulating pump with a sureflo 3.0 gpm pump? Was it rated for the higher duty cycles? Or are you referencing the water system pump? Just confirming in case I need to do the same.
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Oops! Dang, that was embarrassing. Fresh water pumps. Sorry about that. Now to delete my post.
 
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