OFFICIAL - 450DA Owner's Thread****

Thanks Frank. I would rather pay a premium on transport rather than removing the arch. How about canvas and the aluminum supports? is this difficult? I wouldn't think so, but I have no experience with a 450. If I do remove canvas then what do I cover the gauges with? I'm moving the boat in November (if all goes accordingly) so there is the potential for weather. I have a concern, perhaps unwarranted, about theft of dash displays. Seems like an easy target for thieves? Transport company is insured but if parked overnight at a truck stop or motel..? I would rather not meet the transport at the marina to see the Garmin ripped off, etc.
 
Remove the canvas from the frames, fold and store it on the salon floor. Old canvas tends to rip and the threads get rotten after a few years so the canvas will probably not survive runing down the interstates. You should also consider having the boat shrink wrapped. If you don't you will sopend the next year cleaning diesel soot and road slime out of every orifice and cabinet oin the boat. Store all the cockpit upholstery in the salon.

If it were me, I would accelerate my time frame to transport in October. Given the boat's location, a November transport date means you will probably need to winterize the water system and the engines. That is wasted money since the boat is going to Florida.

The top frame is stainless steel tubing so it can be heavy. it is easy to remove but I wouldn't. Pad it with cheap foam pipe insulation then tape it or tie it down to the windshield or arch.

The dash can be covered with heavy plastic, but be careful with duck tape. That glue is the pits to remove so tape only to fiberglass, not to the painted eyebrow cover on the top of the dash.
 
I have a rather annoying leak which fills the storage area under the seating in the aft cabin on the port side.
It appears to comes from behind the fridge area in the port side galley. I have replaced the windscreen rubbers and rebedded the screws to no avail...has anyone struck this issue...?

Hi Barlow, sorry I just saw this issue you are having and I had the same problem. The plumbing for the galley, wash machine, and aft head are (I am galley to starboard) all behind the refrigerator. It has been a few years, but I had to get out my short 3-4 foot ladder and climb over the fridge. I replaced all of the fresh water fittings back there. It's a royal PITA to do this and I am 6'1" 205 lbs, if you are bigger or have any flexibility issues you will have to sub this out... I see now you are stating port side so sorry this may not help...
 
Is there a way to run the refrigerator and freezer without the generator?

Unless the fridge has been replaced with a non-standard unit most will run on the 12v house batteries when 120v is not available
 
Im getting quotes for shipping a 97 DA. "The quote assumes the boat loading out on transporter 14'5 H or lower" Does anyone know the height of the boat (not the draft) Does this sound like a reasonable guess?
Thanks!
Bob

Hi Bob, we bought ours out of So. Cal. and we had it transported up I-5 to Tacoma, WA. It was on a low boy with props off and everything above the stock arch removed. Ours was a May move with a good weather window, I opted not to shrink wrap and did well. Everything like Frank said from the helm & cockpit was stored below.
LINA LINA ARRIVAL 007.jpg
 
Bob,

If you cannot/will not consider accelerating your schedule then you need to fully winterize all the systems on the boat. There are low places in the engines' water jackets and in the freshwater systems that will not gravity drain. All you need is a trucker to get caught in an early winter storm and spend several cold nights in a truck stop in the North. A boat on a traailer doesn't have the benefit everything below the waterline sitting in fairly warm water acting as a heat sink to prevent freezing.

If your destination has not changed, the guys on the receiving end can and will take care of your boat...you just need to either get it headed South as early as possible or have it winterized.
 
What is the best replacement for the windshield rubber shield? I’ve seen all kinds of fixes and recommendations. Should each screw be recaulked before rubber installed?

I just did mine last week. resealed all screws and replaced windshield gasket screw covering. Fisheries has the best price but is an hour drive away so I went to West Marine and with their new policy, they price matched 4 x 8' did the trick...
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/taco-marine-tco-v30-0750b8-1-v30-0750b8-1 $20.44 per 8' or $2.50 per foot - read the dimensions, identical to Taylor Made rip off price.... Just saying !
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/taco...ets-for-windshields-hatches--P024_725_001_500

Last edited: May 17, 2018
 
Hi 450 people. Just sold my 400 express and looking at 450's. only been a few days of looking. Found one with 3116 cats in it. The 300 hp ones. Everything I read says " stay away". Wondering y. Underpowered? Low resale? Any info would be great. Btw. It's a 97 w/ 840 hours. Thx
I have a 96 450 Da for sale with 3126 cats. Cat replaced the 3116's under warranty. approx 800 hrs. I am having all the canvas replaced as we speak. Including a cockpit cover and full camper canvas in black. Not one issue with boat. Never had any major issues. Just small stuff as to be expected.
 
I have a 96 450 Da for sale with 3126 cats. Cat replaced the 3116's under warranty. approx 800 hrs. I am having all the canvas replaced as we speak. Including a cockpit cover and full camper canvas in black. Not one issue with boat. Never had any major issues. Just small stuff as to be expected.
May I ask where you are getting your new canvas made?

Thank you.
 
Looking on some advice on replacing the prop shaft. The shaft is 1-3/4" and will also need new cuttless bearings.

Thanks in Advance.
 
I suspect you are going to have a hard time finding Aquamet shafting in Colorado. However, if a local machine shop can order it, the original shafts were Aquamet 19, from there the machining isn't complicated: a taper, a keyway and threads on both ends and a hole drilled for cotter pins on the prop end.

The tapers are industry standards to mate with the prop and transmission coupler, so the best approach is to order the shafting then haul the boat out of the water and remove the shaft you are replacing and take it to your machine shop for them to copy. The shafts finish 92.25" long so you will probably need to buy a 10ft. stick for each shaft you re replacing. One shaft will probably cost $750-$900, with no shipping.

The other alternative is to go to a Sea Ray dealer and order a shaft from the factory. However, the factory is closed and never made the shafts anyway, so they will need to order one from their vendor and ship it to you. Freight will be expensive and will be by common carrier, plus you will have a Sea Ray mark up and a dealer's mark up and one shaft my cost $2000-$2500.

That is all I've got.....!
 
I’m installing a satdome. I like the low dual mount instead of the mast. Does anyone have this setup? I have a Raymarine Super HD 4kw open array radar but I read about interference.....but see a lot of KVH mounted close and on same place as radar.
 

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I’m installing a satdome. I like the low dual mount instead of the mast. Does anyone have this setup? I have a Raymarine Super HD 4kw open array radar but I read about interference.....but see a lot of KVH mounted close and on same place as radar.
summer cruise 2007 105.jpg
 
PS LO issue with heater.

Pretty much sums up the problem. After running for a while in the heat mode, the main cabin heater will shut off with a PS LO error. The forward heater continues to run just fine. Oddly enough in summer time when the units are set to cool, both forward and main units run just fine.

I've tried to adjust the shunt valve under the stair area to control how much water is going to each unit. Actually not sure if that shunt controls the water going to the units, or if it restricts the water leaving the system. Also note I've replaced the tiny 1/4 HP motor for the AC system in the engine room with a much larger 1/3 HP motor. I know both systems are getting water for cooling.

Suggestions?
 
PS LO issue with heater.

Pretty much sums up the problem. After running for a while in the heat mode, the main cabin heater will shut off with a PS LO error. The forward heater continues to run just fine. Oddly enough in summer time when the units are set to cool, both forward and main units run just fine.

I've tried to adjust the shunt valve under the stair area to control how much water is going to each unit. Actually not sure if that shunt controls the water going to the units, or if it restricts the water leaving the system. Also note I've replaced the tiny 1/4 HP motor for the AC system in the engine room with a much larger 1/3 HP motor. I know both systems are getting water for cooling.

Suggestions?

Good flow out of both outlets ?

And my setup has a splitter on the discharge end of the pump in the ER, with 2 lines one going to each unit.
 

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