500/520 DB official thread

Interesting - each state has a different fuel blend for summer and winter. Diesel can have anti-gelling additives in the winter. But, I can't see how that would affect EGT's... The ECM will change the fuel calibration based upon many parameters including air temperature, coolant temperature, and load which can affect EGT's. The only other thing I can think of is the turbo works harder the denser (cooler) the air consequently, it will take more heat out of the exhaust gasses to do that work. Maybe ask Tony at Seaboard Marine; he is "the" Cummins expert and would probably have answer.
I sent off an email. I'll report back when I hear. Mike
 
F2F5F454-7DCD-4126-A977-66C18517421F.jpeg
I am looking for a replacement water filter for my fresh water system. It is a screw on filter housing behind the shelving in the bilge area under the galley. There are no markings on the housing or the filter itself. The last parts manual you can get is from 2007 and the part number for the filter is #439950. When I google that part number nothing comes up online.
It is a carbon filter about 9.5” long and 3” Dia. Anyone have any idea the company that makes it and where I can get one?
Next step is going to the dealer but I am sure I will pay double for the same filter going that route.
 
My boat had a different cartridge, which I took to Fisheries Supply (biggest marine supply store on the west coast), and they had never seen that type of cartridge. They sold me one which works fine, and I also found it on Amazon. I can send you the link if you like.

Also, I moved the filter cartridge from behind the shelf to the port side of the washing machine.
 
My boat had a different cartridge, which I took to Fisheries Supply (biggest marine supply store on the west coast), and they had never seen that type of cartridge. They sold me one which works fine, and I also found it on Amazon. I can send you the link if you like.

Also, I moved the filter cartridge from behind the shelf to the port side of the washing machine.
If you could send the link that would be great, thank you.
It is in a horrible location. I have my hands full for work to do on the boat this winter but I put moving it out from behind the shelf on my future to do list
 
Several of my friends have bought or made hose filter attachments, so when they fill up their boat, they take the hose from the dock, connect it to a filter, which then goes into their boat. This has a larger filter, and supposedly keeps all sorts of crap out of your tank.
 
I realize different boat, but my filters are Pentek EPM-10. I can measure one tomorrow if you would like. they are easily available...
If it is easy to measure that would be great, thank you for the help.
 
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I’ve been using this same system now since May with a sediment filter ahead of the water softener and think it works great. We run off tank water alol the time to constantly use the tank rather than direct hookup to dock water. Keeps your system very fresh and no odors or issues.
 
I currently have all chain for the anchor. I have not pulled it all out yet and measured but judging on the pile in the anchor locker my guess would be about 150ft of chain. I want to add another 200ft of rope to the chain. I have 5/16" chain, a 60lb Kodiak plow anchor and a Lofrans Progress 1500 windlass. 5/16" chain seems light for a 54ft 50,000lb boat. I checked Lofrans website and the 1500 does accept 5/16" chain but this is the lightest chain it will accept. If I have a 5/16" drum on the windlass then according to Lofrans I need to use 9/16" anchor line, which again seems light for this boat. My question is what size chain do you have your boats? Anyone know how to tell which Lofrans 1500 drum I have. I looked for marking/ numbers on the drum and didn't see any. I took the top off the drum and didn't see any marking son the top side of it either. If the boat should have larger than 5/16" chain and 9/16" rope then I want to change it now rather than buying to small rope for the boat.

Thanks for the help
 
I believe mine is also G4 5/16 I would think adding (rope) to an all chain rode would be the weakest link why not go all chain and not worry any longer? We have 275' of chain and have never had it all out yet
 
I believe mine is also G4 5/16 I would think adding (rope) to an all chain rode would be the weakest link why not go all chain and not worry any longer? We have 275' of chain and have never had it all out yet
My though process was if I had 150ft of chain that would cover me in most anchorages that I would be anchoring in. The extra 250-300ft of rope I was going to add would be for emergencies when I found myself in 100+ft of water and I was drifting for some reason. I wasn’t planning on this rope holding me for extended periods of time. Maybe this is not a good reason for the extra rope. I would be interested in hearing people’s thoughts on this.
 
View attachment 64512 Speaking of filters my neighbor talked me into running water through a water softener and pre filter before it goes into the tank I keep it in the transom trunk. No more water spots and the women say their hair is nicer hahahahahah
I also have 3 more spin on filters after the tank that I get from Lowe’s

https://www.lowes.com/pd/A-O-Smith-...ock-Whole-House-Replacement-Filter/1000575895


I will check this out as well as getting rid of water spots would be nice.
 
My boat came with 200' of chain, and after research and talking to experts, I wound up adding 200' of line. The logic is that at a 5-1, I can anchor in 80' of water and the 200' of chain will lay on the ground and form the catenary properly.

I took a photo of my gypsy and the local marine supply store used the code stamped on it to determine the specs (see photo)
IMG_7814.JPG



The tricky part is the braid between the chain and line and getting it to run through the windlass. The trick was running it back and forth (pushing it through by hand) until it went through on it's own.

IMG_1362.JPG
 
My boat came with 200' of chain, and after research and talking to experts, I wound up adding 200' of line. The logic is that at a 5-1, I can anchor in 80' of water and the 200' of chain will lay on the ground and form the catenary properly.

I took a photo of my gypsy and the local marine supply store used the code stamped on it to determine the specs (see photo)View attachment 64614


The tricky part is the braid between the chain and line and getting it to run through the windlass. The trick was running it back and forth (pushing it through by hand) until it went through on it's own.

View attachment 64615

Thanks for the info, this was my train of thought as well. I don’t have that number stamped on my drum but my drum looks similar. Do you have 5/16” chain? If so what rope did you purchase and from where did you get it?
 
I'm fairly certain it was 9/16.

I got really good advice, and bought the line, from Fisheries Supply in Seattle. They're the biggest marine supply on the west coast, and they have great prices. I'm sure if you call them you can get someone on the phone who can give you guidance -- but they will want to know which gypsy you have.

There were a lot of reasons to go with rope vs. chain. Chain is very heavy - I think it was 7 pounds/foot; given the amount of strain, you can't add more chain, so you have to buy 400' and that's very expensive. There's the added benefit of being able to cut the rope in an emergency (without having to dive to the bottom of the anchor locker). Also, after the 200' of chain is out and we're into the rope, I don't need to use my anchor bridle, as the rope has some stretch. However, as the chain stopper (the pin and bracket) doesn't work with rope, you need to tie off to a cleat.

The rope they recommended is both very strong and light, although the splice was a bit complicated. I'll have to go through my receipts to find the exact rope I used, or you could send them the photo I posted above.

Since I added the rope, we've paid out more than 200' (beyond the chain) 3-4 times, and it's worked great.
 

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