Engine died at 1300 rpm on the water - won't start back up. 2010 Sea Ray 240 Sundancer

MD2020

New Member
Sep 3, 2018
19
Clearwater Fl
Boat Info
2010 Sea Ray 240 Sundancer
Engines
Mercruiser 5.0 MPI
  • Full tank of fuel
  • run (kill) switch was not tripped and is in the run position
  • fuel shut off solenoid clicks on/off
  • electric fuel pump runs
  • Checked the spark/ ignition wires with a timing light and have spark.
  • Depressed Schrader valve on fuel rail during cranking and no fuel comes out

Trying to start, it just cranks and cranks, like it has no spark or fuel.

Update (30DEC18):
removed line from fuel rail (had to get special fuel line tool at autozone $7.00) put in bucket.

Removed pick up line from gas tank after fuel shut off solenoid (so I can rule out solenoid).

Turned to run and cracked engine, no fuel picked up or comes out of fuel line.

Pulled electrical connector off fuel pump and hooked up volt meter.
Turned on to run, 12V coming to fuel pump, has 12V during initiate run position and cranking.

Isolation so far has proved the fuel pump is not working, Pulling cool fuel module and will disassemble. now to determine which electric fuel pump is not working, the low pressure or the high pressure pump, as the cool fuel module has two electric pumps.
 

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Not sure where you're boating but I had a 29 Baja outlaw with twin 454s that was bad about vapor locking. It was only in the middle of summer and if I was running it hard. Leaving the hatch up when we were stopped solved the issue. Might check your fuel vent also. Just loosen your cap.
 
Is it getting fuel? Also how strong is the spark (coil)
 
spark is great, its looking more like a fuel issue. when I have someone crank the engine the fuel rail valve when depressed does not squirt gas. odd thing is that I hear the fuel pump run when I click to the run position. I filled the fuel filter compartment in the cooled fuel module. and sucked out fuel from the line coming from the tank and through the shut off solenoid.
 
Can you plumb in a temporary tank to rule out the supply side of the system?

Also may have a clogged fuel filter from age or any other debris.
 
Hi,

Change your IAC valve. The same thing happened to a friend of mine and it was the valve.
Easy fix. Two bolts and it pops off. Take it to an automotive store and have them match it up. It should cost about $50.00. A boat mechanic will charge you about $300.00 for the same job.

Standard Motor Products AC423 Idle Air Control Motor
( 292505763396 )
p.jpg
 
Can you plumb in a temporary tank to rule out the supply side of the system?

Also may have a clogged fuel filter from age or any other debris.
I’m trying this tomorrow
Hi,

Change your IAC valve. The same thing happened to a friend of mine and it was the valve.
Easy fix. Two bolts and it pops off. Take it to an automotive store and have them match it up. It should cost about $50.00. A boat mechanic will charge you about $300.00 for the same job.

Standard Motor Products AC423 Idle Air Control Motor
( 292505763396 )
p.jpg
where is this located?
 
I’m trying this tomorrow

where is this located?
I checked into the symptoms of a bad IAC. And it is only at 0 throttle the engine won’t start. If you throttle up in neutral it starts. But in my case it still won’t start. I’m still leaning to the no fuel pressure issue.
 
Can you plumb in a temporary tank to rule out the supply side of the system?

Also may have a clogged fuel filter from age or any other debris.
I replaced the fuel filter and the bottom diaper last month. The old filter and diaper were not that dirty. As for fuel - I have only ran marine ethanol-free gas.
 
You could also spray carb cleaner into the throttle body while someone turns the key to start the engine.

If it runs on the carb cleaner then stalls when you stop spraying, you’ve confirmed the low fuel pressure/lack of fuel.
 
My 8.1l did this last year. Turned out to be the crankshaft sensor. Replaced it and all good. The sensor died so fast that the alarms couldnt catch the failure so it took time to find the issue. At first I thought it was fuel related, then electrical. But it was just the sensor.
 
PROBLEM SOLVED - 1. FIXED THE WIRING HARNESS THAT LED TO INTERMITTANT 12V TO FUEL PUMPS AND 2. REPLACED DISTRIBUTOR CAP AN ROTOR. ENGINE STARTS AND RUNS. Yes, two problems at the same time..
 
Who can give me their analysis? Here are photos of the bad Rotor and Cap - When I looked at them the first time during my troubleshooting, they appeared normal to me on visual inspection. (after further troubleshooting I replaced with a new rotor and cap and the problem resolved; Engine started and runs fantastic now)
 

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It doesn’t look horrible, but I had a similar issue last year.

I had misfires and popping in the intake manifold above 3,600 or so rpm.

I replaced the cap and rotor (original 2007 with 300 hrs on it) problem solved. I looked at the old one and couldn’t see any obvious problem either.
 
The cap gets a fine thin film of oil covering the inside which will get moisture in it and that will conduct the spark to another plug or ground. Sometimes you can clean the inside of the cap with contact cleaner and get more use out of it. sometime you'll get carbon arcing which is a thin trail of carbon that builds up and bonds to the cap between two of the contacts and two plugs can fire at the same time.
 

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