Official 330 Sundancer Thread

Golfman25 said:
Not doing the portable generator thing. It's a nice to have. Not a must have. Just trying to figure what the value of the generator is regarding price and demand.
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Understood. I had the same dilemma in 2009 when I bought my 330. On the great lakes there are lots of 330's without generators. Other than this summer (abnormally hot), I don't find I need A/C on the hook and can do everything else for 3 to 4 day trips with my inverter and 6v golf cart battery house bank, along with BBQ and butane powered one burner stove. I ended up going for a non-generator 330 because I found a nice one and wanted to pull the trigger. No regrets (well, maybe small regret???). In 2009 the used price difference was about $5K but really hard to pin down because only looked at asking prices and other condition factors muddy the waters a lot.
 
domer94 said:
hey so I have this same issue. I checked those fuses and both ok. I priced out another switch assembly and they are about $220 , but I saw the jabsco model 60080-0012 for $450. it looks like it has the same switch assembly , so can I assume I can just replace the light and switch without running a wire?
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getting some water leakage in the mid cabin area stbd side. ive notices some of the forward corner stbd side being wet lately. I see seom slight mildewing in the hanging locker , but cannot see where there is water able to come in. around the portlight seems not affected by water. anywhere else I should be looking?
 
Check the side oval porthole screws....every one of mine needed tightening. I also opened and cleaned the windows and seals.

Next the skylight windows and seals.

The nav lights are apparently notorious and not sealed. People take the nav lights off and reseal them with 3m 4200 or similar.

I think your location will be nav light or skylight windows.

After that youre down to rub rail sealing and the cleat and stainless rail mountings.

Just to be thorough check the ac drip pan and shower bilge area...but your leak seems too high for those.
 
LUnaCY said:
Check the side oval porthole screws....every one of mine needed tightening. I also opened and cleaned the windows and seals.

Next the skylight windows and seals.

The nav lights are apparently notorious and not sealed. People take the nav lights off and reseal them with 3m 4200 or similar.

I think your location will be nav light or skylight windows.

After that youre down to rub rail sealing and the cleat and stainless rail mountings.

Just to be thorough check the ac drip pan and shower bilge area...but your leak seems too high for those.
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would water from the nav light area make it all the way aft like that? not doubting , just seems odd. come to think , I had some slight mildew in the fwd stbd side hanging locker as well.
 
domer94 said:
would water from the nav light area make it all the way aft like that? not doubting , just seems odd. come to think , I had some slight mildew in the fwd stbd side hanging locker as well.
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I was thinking of just the fwd closet. Seems you have two areas to address. I imagine the list would cover it, but the mid cabin...check your floor bilge area for any signs, the ac drip pan, perhaps your fresh water tank, then move up to the hull openings.
 
domer94 said:
would water from the nav light area make it all the way aft like that? not doubting , just seems odd. come to think , I had some slight mildew in the fwd stbd side hanging locker as well.
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My bet would be on the bow rail needed to be rebedded. Quite common for those to loosen and need to be rebed/tightened on our gen 330's.
 
Fellow 330 owners, I'm planning on replacing one of my engines over the winter, doing as much of the work as I can myself. I'd like to gather any advice or knowledge that I can before I start ripping into her. I can get a reman. ATK gen V long block for around 3k delivered. My yard does allow me to perform work, and will assist me in the heavy lifting.
 
please post some pics....
I don't think you can take the motor and v drive out as one without pulling the shaft. If your going to have both apart its probably a good time to replace shaft seals.
 
You will definitely have to pull the Prop and shaft, (Should replace the strut bushing at this time as well). The Hatch should have another attachment that allows for it to go vertical. As for the Motor, pull the throttle and shift cables, fuel line, ground wires, wire harness (for EFI Motors) water hose to the water pump, depending on which motor the hoses that run to the hot water tank. The Motor is supported by pogo’s, should be easy to remove the bolts. You will need a high low with a boom and a come-along to lift the motor out, Motors should have attachments (hooks) for the come-along, take it slow! There is always a wire or something attached that can easily be missed, I believe the motor should come out with the transmission attached, there should be room, (you can confirm with a tape measure). I cannot think of anything else… ( I worked on boats as a kid while going to college in the late 1990’s). Replacing the shaft seal is a good idea, and maybe anything else that is easy to access with the motor out (Bilge pumps, rudder packing, etc.) and give everything a good cleaning.. When the motor goes back in you will definitely have to do a realignment. May want to send both the props and shafts out to be checked / straightened (probably a good ideas to do both port and Starboard props and shafts and once reinstalled do the alignments on both). Take a lot of pictures!
 
I'm currently shopping for a '96 - '98 330DA and have looked at several. I looked at a nice boat yesterday but what struck me was the A/C location and the generator switch on the electronic panel. My question is, were those kind of options installed at different locations in the factory or maybe these are dealer installed? The boat I saw yesterday had the A/C control and a vent on the stb aft facing bulkhead between the hanging locker and the settee. The A/C control and ducting take up some space inside the locker. Other control locations have been to port over the galley sink or under the cabinet below the TV. Same thing with the generator switch. This had a rotary switch on the electronic panel. Others have a toggle under a slide. Why all the differences between the same model?
 
Hi my 95 has ac controls under the TV with the unit under the bed my 4 ducts are all located on port side.

all my generator controls are located in my main panel
 
has anyone ever removed the engine hatch. was going to pull by generator and do some maintenance would love to be able to jump right in.. yes I miss all the room my 390 had
 
timinfla2 said:
Well, I hope I'm not stepping on toes here but I did a search and could not find another thread that was devoted to 330's.

So here it is!

To all my fellow 330 owners, please say hello.

Regards,
Tim
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Joining from Toronto, Canada! Just upgraded from a Chaparral 260 Signature to a 1997 Sea Ray 330 Sundancer - Looking forward to chatting.
 
Martin74 said:
Joining from Toronto, Canada! Just upgraded from a Chaparral 260 Signature to a 1997 Sea Ray 330 Sundancer - Looking forward to chatting.
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Nice boat, but then again I am biased. Lots of good information on here and a few fellow Canadians as well.
 
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