40 sedan bridge forum

I am thinking to buying a Dinghy to carry in the platform.
what will be the best size to fit in our boat. I saw West marine and they have the RIB-271 which is 8"-6" long and the next RIB-310 which is 10-2" .

according to your experience and use, what size you recommend, also about the weight.
I am thinking of installing the Hurley marine davit H20
see link attached
https://hurleymarine.com/shop/dinghy-davit-boat/h2o/

Any ideas and recommendations will be appreciated.

post how you carry your dinghy
My apologies for the rather late reply and I see that many others have posted their dinghy solutions, but here’s ours:
- Zodiac Wave inflatable
- 8HP Mercury outboard (fits in transom locker)
- Snap Davits by weaver products

NOTE the (detachable) transom wheels which provide a built-in trailer for beaching
 

Attachments

  • AF5F0ECF-B224-410B-B517-F5D7B14F6A80.jpeg
    AF5F0ECF-B224-410B-B517-F5D7B14F6A80.jpeg
    164.3 KB · Views: 213
  • DCCA1E98-1547-458D-83AE-5860AD7ED8DF.jpeg
    DCCA1E98-1547-458D-83AE-5860AD7ED8DF.jpeg
    180.9 KB · Views: 222
  • 6CCF4419-3793-457D-BC9A-7F1BE0143DBD.jpeg
    6CCF4419-3793-457D-BC9A-7F1BE0143DBD.jpeg
    134.3 KB · Views: 210
My apologies for the rather late reply and I see that many others have posted their dinghy solutions, but here’s ours:
- Zodiac Wave inflatable
- 8HP Mercury outboard (fits in transom locker)
- Snap Davits by weaver products

NOTE the (detachable) transom wheels which provide a built-in trailer for beaching

Tigger, that looks great, how or where do you carry the engine while you are traveling?
 
Tigger, that looks great, how or where do you carry the engine while you are traveling?
The engine fits perfectly in the Transom locker... together with the “trailer wheels”, my hose, shore power cables etc... it’s a bit of a Tetris Game, but it all fits... and keeps the weight (slightly) further forward as well as making the engine less “stealable”... I’ll take a picture next time I’m on the boat...

Cheers
Simon
 
Has anyone moved their holding tank filter to a remote location? This weekend I had to change mine after tank was overfilled and it was even more unpleasant than normal.
 
I had to replace some of my 6.5" hole covers on the bridge/radar arch. I found these at Wholesale Marine, as a perfect fit. Screw holes line up perfect. In case any of you want to do the same.
 

Attachments

  • F9C088EA-4ED9-40F8-BDF9-96B49C87A540.jpeg
    F9C088EA-4ED9-40F8-BDF9-96B49C87A540.jpeg
    98.7 KB · Views: 159
I had to replace some of my 6.5" hole covers on the bridge/radar arch. I found these at Wholesale Marine, as a perfect fit. Screw holes line up perfect. In case any of you want to do the same.
That’s good to know. Actually just pulled all 3 of mine out just last weekend and painted them white to get rid of the aged yellow color. I mounted a camera to the one on the arch as a backup camera and to have the ability to see what’s happening in my cockpit from my chart plotter screen.
 
The engine fits perfectly in the Transom locker... together with the “trailer wheels”, my hose, shore power cables etc... it’s a bit of a Tetris Game, but it all fits... and keeps the weight (slightly) further forward as well as making the engine less “stealable”... I’ll take a picture next time I’m on the boat...

Cheers
Simon
As promised, here's a photo of the engine and all the other stuff, which (just) fits in the transom locker to keep it safe and secure while away from the boat and/or under way...

Cheers,
Simon
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2139.jpg
    IMG_2139.jpg
    96.3 KB · Views: 223
My Fresh Water Pump No 1 "hunts" when I switch on the breaker, then it trips after about 30 seconds... I wondered if it was an air lock (as I'd drained the fresh water tank to clean it out), but it runs fine with the faucets open, with no spluttering, it just trips when they are all off... any thoughts/suggestions/ideas?

I took a video to show the Amps hunting and the breaker tripping, but the file size is to big to upload... nice idea, bad execution...

Thanks for any thoughts/advice,
Simon
The plot thickens... I realise that when the pump is on, HOT water spurts from the overflow (see picture)... the pump runs (and water spurts) for about 30 secs until the breaker trips.... hot water comes out of all the faucets (without spluttering) when the pump is running and also when the boat is connected drectly to town water and the pumps are off, so I am assuming that rules out the possibility of an air lock?... I am truly baffled... any and all thoughts/suggestions as to how to trouble shoot this would be greatly appreciated.

NOTE: I should add that everything has been working perfectly all season until I completely drained the tank to treat it for "bad egg smell" from the faucets... I drained the tank, added a gallon of bleach, then filled the tank, ran the water system until I could smell the bleach from all faucets (hot, cold and anchor wash), then let it sit overnight and flushed it all through... ever started a job in good faith and high hopes only to regret it later????!!!

Thanks in advance,
Simon
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2138.jpg
    IMG_2138.jpg
    102.9 KB · Views: 174
The plot thickens... I realise that when the pump is on, HOT water spurts from the overflow (see picture)... the pump runs (and water spurts) for about 30 secs until the breaker trips.... hot water comes out of all the faucets (without spluttering) when the pump is running and also when the boat is connected drectly to town water and the pumps are off, so I am assuming that rules out the possibility of an air lock?... I am truly baffled... any and all thoughts/suggestions as to how to trouble shoot this would be greatly appreciated.

NOTE: I should add that everything has been working perfectly all season until I completely drained the tank to treat it for "bad egg smell" from the faucets... I drained the tank, added a gallon of bleach, then filled the tank, ran the water system until I could smell the bleach from all faucets (hot, cold and anchor wash), then let it sit overnight and flushed it all through... ever started a job in good faith and high hopes only to regret it later????!!!

Thanks in advance,
Simon
The hot water overflow is a 75psi valve as installed at the factory. Possibly the pump pressure shutoff is shot and it just keep pumping until it exceeds 75psi, shooting water out the HW heater. Kinda guessing here.
 
There was a separate thread on this but I can't find it as easy with the new forum software, so I will put it here. I finally got around to resealing the three windows of my windshield. I used the following steps after buying 55' of the trim.

1. Pull off old trim
2. Clean and surgically reseal where needed. Note that the old sealant is very dry and crumbly. You can get carried away cleaning out more of the old stuff than you need to
3. Install new seal. It was easy to push in once I figured it out. Push the top edge of the insert into the channel then push down and in to roll the bottom edge of the insert into the channel.
4. Run sealant under and then over each joined edge.
5. Run sealant under the edge of the trim to glue it to the window. This will help prevent the shrinking (I hope).

I used OSI Quad Max sealant in black.

I have a bunch of pictures on my phone and on the Cloud to upload but I have no idea how to get a picture into a thread with this new website software. I used to be able to just drop them in.

Thanks for the advice on ordering the trim! I contacted Taylor and have 55' in hand. How did you remove the old trim? Is there a trick to getting it out of the track?
 
Thanks for the advice on ordering the trim! I contacted Taylor and have 55' in hand. How did you remove the old trim? Is there a trick to getting it out of the track?

Really, just pull it. Unless somebody added some sealant, it will come out easy
 
The hot water overflow is a 75psi valve as installed at the factory. Possibly the pump pressure shutoff is shot and it just keep pumping until it exceeds 75psi, shooting water out the HW heater. Kinda guessing here.
Thanks Bill... I think your "guess" got me on the right track, but we'll see... I went to the boat yesterday to do some more trouble-shooting and, as a result, I called Jabsco/Xylem Technical Dept with the symptoms... in the interests of information sharing and in case anyone else has this issue now or in future, here's their email response, verbatim:

"The problem with your pump is the Check Valve. What you would need to do is to clean it. Take the four bolts out of the head of the pump. The pump will come apart in two pieces the motor and lower housing as one unit and the pump head. Once you spread the two pieces apart the check valve will usually fall out by itself. The check valve looks like a four leaf cover with suctions cup in each corner; that are machine press in. Take the check valve and place it in a bucket of warm water wait a couple of minutes. While the check valve is soaking; take the head where the suction and the discharge hose hookup and rotate and look inside. You will see a circle in the center a 1/8” edge; take a wet towel and wipe off that edge (Front, Back and Top Edge). Take the Check Valve when it’s submerged pick it up and slush it back and forth in the bucket of water for a couple of minutes (While Submerged). This should clear all the particles; place the check valve back in the head of the pump and put it back together; 90% of the time your pump will be back to normal."

They also sent me the attached Data Sheet, which includes a diagram of the pump components and parts list, in case it's helpful to anyone? (The faulty pump on my boat is a Jabsco PAR-MAX 4 Model No: 3160-7003, but that may not be original?)

Armed with the above and attached, I will do as they suggest and see if it solves the issue... if the above doesn't work, looks like its a $40 part to replace the check valve, but I can't wait for shipping, so hope the above works!

Stay tuned...

Cheers,
Simon
 

Attachments

  • 31620-0092.pdf
    279.8 KB · Views: 130
Last edited:
My apologies for the rather late reply and I see that many others have posted their dinghy solutions, but here’s ours:
- Zodiac Wave inflatable
- 8HP Mercury outboard (fits in transom locker)
- Snap Davits by weaver products

NOTE the (detachable) transom wheels which provide a built-in trailer for beaching

Nice setup thank you for posting the pictures
Fernando
FeLiz Dream
 
Thanks Bill... I think your "guess" got me on the right track, but we'll see... I went to the boat yesterday to do some more trouble-shooting and, as a result, I called Jabsco/Xylem Technical Dept with the symptoms... in the interests of information sharing and in case anyone else has this issue now or in future, here's their email response, verbatim:

"The problem with your pump is the Check Valve. What you would need to do is to clean it. Take the four bolts out of the head of the pump. The pump will come apart in two pieces the motor and lower housing as one unit and the pump head. Once you spread the two pieces apart the check valve will usually fall out by itself. The check valve looks like a four leaf cover with suctions cup in each corner; that are machine press in. Take the check valve and place it in a bucket of warm water wait a couple of minutes. While the check valve is soaking; take the head where the suction and the discharge hose hookup and rotate and look inside. You will see a circle in the center a 1/8” edge; take a wet towel and wipe off that edge (Front, Back and Top Edge). Take the Check Valve when it’s submerged pick it up and slush it back and forth in the bucket of water for a couple of minutes (While Submerged). This should clear all the particles; place the check valve back in the head of the pump and put it back together; 90% of the time your pump will be back to normal."

They also sent me the attached Data Sheet, which includes a diagram of the pump components and parts list, in case it's helpful to anyone? (The faulty pump on my boat is a Jabsco PAR-MAX 4 Model No: 3160-7003, but that may not be original?)

Armed with the above and attached, I will do as they suggest and see if it solves the issue... if the above doesn't work, looks like its a $40 part to replace the check valve, but I can't wait for shipping, so hope the above works!

Stay tuned...

Cheers,
Simon
UPDATE: In the end I opted to buy a new check valve (~$40 inc chipping from Defender), as, on reflection, I wasn't relishing the prospect of removing and reinstalling the pump (and wiring) twice, if the cleaning option didn't work (I'm 6'3" and it's a tight space)... happy to report that I installed the new check valve and the pump works perfectly - only runs with faucets open and no H/W overflow... actually, the new valve looked pretty much the same as the old after I'd cleaned it (picture attached), but whatever the issue was, it's resolved now...

However, I assume due to the fact that the pressure relief valve was having to relieve the pressure build up from the pump running 'til the breaker tripped, it now leaks (drips)... but that's an easy $15 fix... oh the joys!
 

Attachments

  • Jabsco Check Valve.jpg
    Jabsco Check Valve.jpg
    65.5 KB · Views: 163
Question for group - went out last night and noticed my mast nav light wasn't working. I didn't have the tools or the time to troubleshoot, but before I go back I wanted to purchase a bulb in case that is the problem. Does anyone know what bulb goes in that light? LED or otherwise?

Thank you
Mike
 

Forum statistics

Threads
112,950
Messages
1,422,833
Members
60,931
Latest member
Ebrown69
Back
Top