Bensen Windlass Replacement

Iprof

Well-Known Member
TECHNICAL Contributor
Aug 8, 2008
2,860
Lake Huron
Boat Info
A 300 DA 4kw Gen-set, central vac, electric head, windlass, AC/reverse heat, Lowrance 522ci GPS Char
Engines
twin 5.7 with Alpha drives
I anchor out a lot over the summer and this summer I have a 6 weeks trip planned for the North Channel and we won't spend much time at a marina. The Benson all rope rode still works good but I need to have chain/rope rode. I will be using 100' chain and 100' or rope. This will do for the places I anchor and most of the time I won't use more that the 100' of chain. Here are a few pictures of the install.
Here is the Bensen and the V700 side by side.

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The new windlass does not use the same holes as the old one but I knew that. The teak pulpit was also in need of sanding and re-oiling.
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Lay out, lay out, lay out you can't afford to make one mistake.
That's a 4 1/2" and a 2 1/2" hole saw.
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I measured it 5 times, checked and rechecked every thing.
Here are the 2 new holes and I made plugs from the 4 1/2" hole that I drilled.
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Here is the windlass dry fitted to make sure every thing is perfect. Notice the teak has been sanded and ready for the oil.
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Here are the plugs installed in the pulpit. They both turned slightly as I hammered them in. I know that the plugs will be seen but they sure look better that a piece of stainless over them.
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Here it is fitted, sealed and bolted into place. I'm just waiting for the acetone to evaporate and then the oil.
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Here is the finished product 4 coats of teak oil. I will connect the power in the morning and install the rode and the anchor.

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This was a project that I was looking forward to and an very happy with the finished job.

I will post a few pictures with the anchor and the chain installed later.

Ken
 
Ken:

Great job! I'm not sure I could stomach cutting a hole that big in my pulpit! My windlass is 16 years old and will be heading for college in a couple of years. I might have to break down and add one at that point! Do you get enough drop in the locker to handle the rope and chain? It seems like it would need to be a little farther back but I haven't ever seen another boat like mine that has a windlass!

I agree that the teak plugs look better than any other patch! They are natural and it says something about the owner and the care to plug those holes the right way! I can't wait to hear how it works!

Great post!!
 
Thank you for the kind words. I did measure the drop and there is lots, the V700 needs 12" and the locker is a lot deeper than 12". I did move the windlass back but not much, 3 inches. I did not have time today to get the electrical connected, I will tomorrow afternoon. I noticed a leak into the cabin at the base of the anchor locker, the inside material is wet at that point. I will sand it and apply some resin and some gray paint to the inside and how that fixes that little problem. I also noticed that there are 2 screws that hold the mirror in place from the anchor locker and they don't look like they every hand any sealant applied to them I will seal that while I am at it. I am re-using the bensen wiring switches and circuit breaker, I will keep the new items and replace the old ones only if needed. I should be able to post pictures by Saturday of the final set-up. The size of the holes scared me also but this is my 3rd install of a windlass and the second Lewmar, the first was a Sprint 600 and if is still working on the Grew 238 I installed it on with out any problems and that was 8 years ago.

Ken
 
Rode Anchor Install

Saturday I finally got around to installing the 200' of chain and rope. I used a claw anchor on my last boat and it never slipped once. We shall see how it holds the SR after 4 or 5 weeks on the hook.
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We went out Saturday night and I let out 100' of chain and was able to retrieve the anchor without any problems. The V700 worked great and I would recommend it to one that needs to replace a windlass.

Ken
 
Hi Ken
My Benson is done and i am going to install a Lewmar in its place and your install looks sweet so I am planning on doing it the way you did yours. Can you tell me what in Gods name I need to do to get this thing off? I removed the cover topside, removed the wood screws that hold the topside section down and I took the 3 nuts that are 3/4 off the rope locker side. I do not see any set screw in the rope grab and even though I tapped on the shaft I can't make it move. Any Advise would help greatly
 
Ken, Nice job ! I just replaced mine 2 weeks ago. I used a stainless Lewmar 700 above deck model that I removed from my last boat. I also used all of the Benson wiring, relays and switch. It works great. I had the same concern about the drop, but it retrieves just fine. I like the teak plugs too. I ended up making a 3/8 thick teak plate to cover all of the old holes, the teak under the Benson just did not sand up nice enough. Dave
 
JJ, You will need to remove the pulley from the shaft to get the motor and gear box out. There is a set screw in the v of the pulley, but if looks like mine did, you will never get it out. I used a 6 inch long 3/8 drive extension, and tapped the shaft out of the pulley. It came right out. Another problem is that sea ray bolted the motor to the boat, then istalled the pulpit, and then installed the capstan. So when you remove the nuts and motor out of the locker, you will be left with three long bolts that you can not remove because the heads are between the hull and the pulpit. I had to cut them off with a sawzall. STUPID idea for the install ! Dave
 
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Re: Rode Anchor Install

Saturday I finally got around to installing the 200' of chain and rope. I used a claw anchor on my last boat and it never slipped once. We shall see how it holds the SR after 4 or 5 weeks on the hook.
nx88es.jpg


33cp6gz.jpg


We went out Saturday night and I let out 100' of chain and was able to retrieve the anchor without any problems. The V700 worked great and I would recommend it to one that needs to replace a windlass.

Ken


Looks great nice job.
 
Do you wnat to get rid of the old one? I have a boat with the lower have only of the old Benson.

Jim
 
Sorry, I already gave the old Benson to another CSR member.
 
I'm starting one of these today I'll be sure to post pictures and the results!
 
Apologize for bringing up this thread from the dead. Do you recall the wiring size the benson had? I too have a Benson, and am ordering a Lewmar Pro 1000. It is calling for 6 or 8 AWG (depends on my wire run). I would splice in the new contactor and breaker, but would love to use the wiring.

Currently the boat has two separate switches (up / down) and I'd keep them if possible.

Thanks!
 
i'm doing mine on Sunday. pray for me!
 
hi, there. i know it's an old thread, but i'm in the middle of this, right now, and having a dreadful time with the pulley. my set screw was in fine shape, so i removed it. there is a key in the shaft--as i'm sure you know. can't get that out. i used a 6 inch drive extension, and hit it with a hammer so many times, my wrist is sore. should i be using a bigger hammer? help!!! my email is davidleonard2@verizon.net.
 
JJ, You will need to remove the pulley from the shaft to get the motor and gear box out. There is a set screw in the v of the pulley, but if looks like mine did, you will never get it out. I used a 6 inch long 3/8 drive extension, and tapped the shaft out of the pulley. It came right out. Another problem is that sea ray bolted the motor to the boat, then istalled the pulpit, and then installed the capstan. So when you remove the nuts and motor out of the locker, you will be left with three long bolts that you can not remove because the heads are between the hull and the pulpit. I had to cut them off with a sawzall. STUPID idea for the install ! Dave
Hello, if you would still be able to discuss this project, I have a Benson that I'm exactly int he middle of, and your coaching would be invaluable. Please advise if you have the interest to share knowledge, thanks !!!
 
hi, there. i know it's an old thread, but i'm in the middle of this, right now, and having a dreadful time with the pulley. my set screw was in fine shape, so i removed it. there is a key in the shaft--as i'm sure you know. can't get that out. i used a 6 inch drive extension, and hit it with a hammer so many times, my wrist is sore. should i be using a bigger hammer? help!!! my email is davidleonard2@verizon.net.

I just helped remove the motor from one of these this past weekend. The trick for us was to apply penetrating oil to the top of the shaft, and then let it sit for about an hour. Then we just tapped it out with an extension. It took a few strong whacks but each tap pushed it down a little further until it finally dropped out.

At the risk of asking the obvious, you did remove the three large nuts holding the motor to the underside of the pulpit, right?
 
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Yes. Nuts removed. So I’m up to hammering the shaft from the top. Is this my best plan? Shall I apply loosening oil around the shaft?
 
Yes. Nuts removed. So I’m up to hammering the shaft from the top. Is this my best plan? Shall I apply loosening oil around the shaft?

Yes. a good penetrating oil helped us. Your pictures still show the nut attached however.
 

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